Le Ravacce: Not Such a Load of Rubbish Now

BASE, our local refuse collection and recycling company, moved this August 3rd from their former location at the beginning of the road to Lugliano to Le Ravacce which is a couple of kilometres from Bagni di Lucca on the Brennero road leading to Abetone.

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The turn-off to the left if you are coming from Bagni di Lucca Villa is marked by this old industrial water pump relic.

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I always thought that the old ‘isola ecologica’ was a load of (wait for it…) rubbish. The building used an old paper mill rented by the company and was not particularly well organised. Plans to move to a new site were already made in 2019 but it is only this month that they have been carried out.

At Ravacce all is changed for the better. A purpose-built ‘isola ecologica,’ it has well-defined areas for different types of material.

Most of this is, of course, collected by that misnamed ‘door-to-door’ weekly collection on defined weekdays for plastic, metal, papers or kitchen waste. It’s misnamed because in many cases (e.g. ours) the collection is certainly not ‘porta a porta’ or ‘door to door’, especially when one has to cart the wheeless bins down steep village lanes to reach the collection point.

Actually this last problem has been solved for us thanks to my wife’s brilliant idea of using an old shopping basket trolley. Here is Sandra is giving its test run.

Le Ravacce web page is at

https://www.bagnidiluccaservizi.it/

The centre’s opening hours are from 8:30 to 11:50 from Monday to Saturday.

The following categories of waste materials are permitted for collection at the centre (together with their code numbers).

 

200127 – Paints, inks, adhesives and resins containing dangerous substances

080318 – Waste printing toner other than those of heading 080317

150101 – Paper and cardboard packaging

150106 – Packaging in mixed material (light multi-material)

150107 – Glass packaging

160505 – Gas in pressurized containers (fire extinguishers)

160601 – Lead acid batteries

160604 – Alkaline batteries

170904 – Mixed waste from construction and demolition activities

200108 – Biodegradable waste from canteens and kitchens (wet)

200121 – Fluorescent tubes and other mercury-containing waste

200123 – Discarded equipment containing CFCs.

200125 – Edible oils and fats

200126 – Used mineral oils and fats

200132 – Out-of-date medicines

200133 – Batteries and accumulators

200135 – Discarded electrical equipment (TVs and monitors)

200136 – Electrical and electronic equipment (Small appliances)

200138 – Wood not containing dangerous substances

200140 – Metals

200201 – Biodegradable waste (garden and grass clippings)

200307 – Bulky waste (bedsteads etc.)

The centre has the now sadly obligatory instructions relating to Covid-19 for users (my translation).

To protect the safety of users and operators contagion prevention operating rules apply. Access will be allowed only to single persons and security measures provided by the operators must be strictly respected at all times; the minimum interpersonal safety distance of 1.8 meters must always be observed. If waiting, one must remain in one’s vehicle. Wearing masks is compulsory and any kind of contact with the operator must be avoided.

As the centre’s boss proudly proclaimed to us. “We now have the centre we deserve.” I’m quite sure they do now!

(…although we feel a little sorry for the owners of this house on the approach to the ‘isola ecologica’.)

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Of Libraries


If a house without a cat is soulless so a house without a library is equally barren. Looking at photographs of some recently erected book shelves in the house of a family who donated our male Tom, Archie, last December turned me to consider my own library here at our little place in Longoio, Italy.

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One of the first things upon settling into our new dwelling was to get our local carpenter to make some rustic chestnut shelves to house those volumes we considered worth the effort to transplant from our former abode in the UK.

My own set of shelves

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was subsequently mirrored by Sandra’s set.

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But what is on these shelves and how have they been built up over the years we have been here? Amazingly we found that the house’s previous owner had been quite a book collector himself and we found some antique volumes dating back to the seventeenth century, mainly of an ecclesiastical nature which formed the kernel of our new ‘biblioteca’.

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There were some more recent acquisitions showing that the owner, a Second World War hero who had lost an arm in combat, had a particular interest in military memoirs. I was particularly taken by accounts of the Italian alpine campaigns on the Russian front – surely one of the most futile and heroic actions ever. But then all war is futile: ‘the pity of war’ as that great war poet, Wilfred Owen, declared.

Added to this original nucleus discovered in our house’s attic are the majority of books: those of my own collection. At school our English literature master, who still happily remains active, severely told us what was worth reading and what wasn’t. As a Leavis acolyte he stressed the great tradition of novel writing – George Eliot, Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, Henry James, Joseph Conrad among them. This was fine with me as I grew to love much of their work. Dickens’ ‘Little Dorrit’ with its unremitting analysis of the Englishman abroad and Conrad’s ‘Heart of Darkness’ remain two of the few novels I dare to re-read.

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Of course, poetry takes up an essential part of my library. I doubt whether I shall ever be remembered as a poet but I love reading and writing it. Keats, Crashaw, Shelley and T. S. Eliot are key people in my canon.

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There is a fair selection of non-fiction of which travel writing takes up the major part. Naturally, Italy occupies most of the focus. In this respect I remember writing as a teenager articles on ‘un turista in Italia ‘ for a schoolfriend’s magazine aptly called ‘Novelty’. For me that word novelty has never quite deserted me (although some detractors may disagree!).

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Apart from other books on such disparate subjects as rearing Muscovy ducks and restoring Fiat Five Hundreds (Cinquine) perhaps my most treasured books are those which have been donated to me by friends, a few of whom have sadly departed. Some of these books may just have been incisive presents. Others will be even more precious, having been written by their donors.

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In this age where we are reading so much on digital media, whether it be on Kindle, the BBC news or Facebook’s tittle-tattle, there is nothing so satisfying and so rewarding as holding a book in one’s hands and turning its pages in wonder at what awaits. The beauty of the written page, the seductive smell of print, the utter assuredness of the book’s presence itself can never be superceeded. Whether in the depths of winter coziness before a log fire or under the shade of a parasol in the laziness of a summer’s Mediterranean heat there is nothing that will communicate the supreme devotion that a good book can offer.

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My library, therefore, is not just a favourite collection of books; it is the whole universe of my intellectual and sensual being: the entire world that I have grown up in and will love until my dying day.

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On the High C’s in our Valley

Crasciana was our first stop on last Sunday’s walk among the villages of the Val di Lima organized by the Vicaria di Lima and the Comune of Bagni di Lucca. Situated in a fantail-like layout, on the south side of the Lima valley at a height of 2621 feet, it’s one of the highest village in our Comune and has some wonderful views as a result.

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Vigilio Contrucci, our guide for this part of the walk, pointed out all the villages one can see from Crasciana.

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Truly, its subtitle ‘La Pomposa’ (translated as ‘splendid ‘ rather than ‘pompous’) suits Crasciana rather well as it mightily dominates the valley from its stratospheric location.

We have been many times to Crasciana but a guided walk does enable us to see familiar places in a novel light besides teaching us previously unknown facts about them. Like so many other villages in the Tuscan Appennines Crasciana owes its foundation to land given by the Roman Empire to its centurions upon their retirement, in this case a certain Carsius.

Crasciana was once located further down from its present site but landslides forced its inhabitants to move further up the hill. Only the church of ‘Santo Della Villa’ now remains of the original village. A religious procession is made every three years from this church to the newer one, dedicated to Saint Jacopo and Frediano, at the top of the village. Our choir has sung at one of these events.

Virgilio led us from the village’s main square, repaved some years ago when it was inaugurated with a concert by a brilliant Pink Floyd cover band we attended (see my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/01/08/walls-but-no-wall/), to the parish church.

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Although originally dating from the thirteenth century the building has been considerably altered and enlarged over the centuries. It has a prettily decorated interior,

 a haunting ancient crucifix

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and a fine 18th century Agati organ which we have heard played on other visits to Crasciana.

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The campanile, or bell tower, of the church reminds one that in former times these places were not just spiritual strongholds but temporal ones too.

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Our guide pointed out to us the original line of walls surrounding Crasciana, their gates and the as yet unexcavated site of the castle.

Crasciana is the birthplace of the engraver Bartolomeo Nerici. We attended a conference on this extraordinary person (described in my post at . https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/06/22/enlightened-engraver/). One of the contributors to the conference was Angela Amadei, familiar as Bagni di Lucca’s head librarian. Her family originate from Crasciana and one of her ancestors was the poet Bartolomeo Amadei. These mountain villages were certainly not all populated by ‘mute, inglorious Miltons’!

Our second ‘high C’ was Casabasciana, at a height of 1876 feet a little lower down from Crasciana, with whom it has shared an often heated rivalry over the years.

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Acquaintance and noted local historian Bruno Micheletti met us at the oratory of the Assumption in the upper part of the village, the first of three religious buildings our visit here was focused on.

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The full Italian title of the oratory is ‘Oratorio dell’Assunta in localita’ Murrotto – the murrotto or muro rotto referring to the broken wall where it is located. Built in 1691 the oratory is preceeded by a high and graceful portico. Within is the effigy of the Assumpted (raised bodily to heaven) Virgin and some fine decorations including a painted ‘cassone’ ceiling.

 

We descended into the heart of Casabasciana, the Piazza Cavour surrounded by the entrance to the parish church dedicated to Saint Quirico and Giulitta, the old village hall, a chapel and a fountain.

Bruno mentioned that the locals used to play ‘palla elastica’ (an Italian version of hand ball squash) in the square much to the annoyance of the priest who was conducting the church services. A second square was, therefore, built further down where the village’s main social activities now take place and where there is a bar and shop.

The church is notable for having the only wholly baroque interior in the valley. All the side altars are in a similar design with a particularly angelic main altar. It’s within this altar that the remains of the village’s patron saint are entombed. Saint Primo was a four year old put to death for his Christian beliefs by a particularly bestial Roman emperor. You can read more about this horrific story and see how Casabasciana celebrates its martyr in my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/08/10/child-murder-and-martyrdom-in-casabasciana/.

Our last ecclesiastical monument was the Pieve of Sala, originally Casabasciana’s parish church.

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Until 1917 the only place one could get baptised in was a Pieve so these buildings had to be located within easy reach of a number of villages. When local churches were allowed to perform baptism many of these pieve were closed up and abandoned. This was the case with the one at Sala which meant that what we were now able to view was a virtually unspoilt late Romanesque building. There were no fancy decorations here: just bare walls, three aisles separated by columns and a semi circular apse.

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The column capitals are carved with a mixture of religious and political symbols. The six leaved circle, for example, represents the six days of the creation and the labyrinthine spiral stands for the quest for spiritual truth.

Once baptism was practised by total immersion and the place where the font formerly stood is marked by a large stone circle on the church floor which originally stood at a deeper level.

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Remains of the font itself are placed in a corner near to the more modern ‘mini font’ now used by the church.

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We skipped the lunch provided by Ferdinando’s Villa Aurora (we have eaten deliciously there on previous occasions) and headed home to our own lunch after a truly interesting and diverting morning spent among those two high C’s of our valley: Crasciana and Casabasciana.

There’s one more visit in this series planned. It’s on the 23rd of August and concentrates on Bagni di Lucca. As with the other walks pre-booking is essential for groups are limited to a maximum of ten persons as part of covid19 precautions.

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I am sure that since these walking visits are proving successful we shall be able to look forwards to many more of them soon.

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How Pardini Beautified Ponte a Serraglio

The spread of summer events in Bagni di Lucca has been somewhat curtailed this year because of the world health crisis. However, there are still some very pleasant activities including a series of walks in and around the town and the surrounding villages organized by the De Montaigne foundation. This is the programme for the events which must all be booked. The walks themselves are free with a voluntary donation towards the upkeep of Bagni’s protestant cemetery.

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We joined one last week-end which took in some historic buildings by the Lucchese architect Giuseppe Pardini (1799-1884) who, in 1834, was appointed chief architect for the city of Lucca.

We started the walk from the gardens of villa Fiori, a formerly magnificent nineteenth century mansion, now virtually abandoned to the elements. Some work had recently been done on its roof. Unfortunately, during the recent storm, described in my previous post, a tall pine tree fell upon the building gravely damaging a part of the structure.

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Although now having a classical appearance, villa Fiori was originally designed in the neo-gothic style. Only the garden turrets now reflect the original architecture of the villa which is desperately seeking a white knight to rescue it from further neglect.

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At the price normally paid for a tiny bedsit in London’s Knightsbridge the villa’s fifty rooms are a real bargain!

We crossed the foot bridge, built in 2009, with our escort, Giulia, a very well informed twenty-three year old member of Bagni’s De Montaigne cultural association, and walked to the old hospital built by Russian count Demidoff as a thank you to the citizens of Bagni for having cured him of gout by drinking its waters.

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The villa Demidoff has been leased for some years to the Global Village which hosts various alternative well-being therapies. The former family mausoleum is now used for yoga sessions.

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Of course, we know these places well having first come to the area in 2005. However, the nice thing about visiting in a small group is that we can see familiar sights with fresh eyes. I get the same sensation when I show some of the beautiful locations this valley offers to friends from abroad.

A steep path led us up to one of the oldest of Bagni’s thermal establishments. The Terme di Bernabo’ date back to at least the fifteenth century although the present building is nineteenth century. Its foyer has exquisite ceiling decorations.

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We viewed the elegant marble baths with their rather less elegant modern taps.

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One bath particularly stood out for its elegance.

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The unfortunate thing about the Bagni Bernabo’, however, is that after their restoration ten years ago there was no-one to maintain and encourage visitors to use them. Hence they are, once again, showing signs of dilapidation. Our escort, nevertheless, did state that there was a possibility that they would once again be open for use by the public.

The views from the Bagni Bernabo’ are especially charming, even more so in the golden late afternoon summer sun; our walk had begun at 5pm to avoid the hottest part of the day.

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We stepped down to the valley floor and entered perhaps Bagni di Lucca’s most magnificent building and Europe’s first public casino, again designed by Pardini. The various rooms, including the sumptuous hall of the lilies (decorated by the same painter who did the ceiling frescoes for the Bagni Bernabo’), are familiar to us through the events they have hosted over the years. May these events return soon!

We crossed the river Lima via a bridge designed, again, by Pardini and reached one of the architect’s most ingenious buildings, the hotel de Russie.

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On an awkward triangular site the architect managed to produce one of the most sumptuous of the forty-odd hotels Bagni di Lucca once had. Giulia informed us that an American architect was inspired by Pardini’s effort to design the flatiron building in New York. Judge for yourselves…

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With this last building, which has both a famous (as writer Ouida’s favourite residence when she would come to Bagni) and an infamous (as a fascist interrogation and torture centre in the last war) association we concluded our Ponte a Serraglio walk. We shall certainly book more as they are such fun and very informative.

Benvenuti!

We are back in Longoio at last. We were meant to be here in March but something called covid19 came along and we had to miss the bus…or rather the plane. Finally, after various cancellations we managed to get O’Leary to transport us to Pisa. The journey, despite our fears, was quite safe with a whole seat row to ourselves.

Landing in Italy we were immediately set face-to-face, or rather mask-to-mask, with a clearer and more distinctive approach to the health crisis. So many more people, officials and public, were donning masks, hand sanitisers were placed everywhere and public information notices were prominently displayed. I, somehow, felt safer although I think anyone would feel the same after leaving the worst affected borough in London, Brent, with over two thousand deaths so far.

The Italian summer does help. The temperature difference from our place in the UK and our place in Italy approached 20 degrees! Mediterranean cafe society, with its open air arrangement of socially distanced tables and chairs, is a palliative too.

We took the train from Pisa di Bagni di Lucca where our Panda 4 x 4 was parked. Trusty as ever it started, after lying idle for over four months, at the first turn of the ignition. Of course, I had disconnected the battery before leaving Italy in February.

We found our house in very reasonable shape. No major storm had damaged the roof and no surrounding trees were down. Most of our geraniums were again flourishing although the lawn left something to be desired; rain had been lacking.

 

Most important of all we found our quintet of cats, Carlotta, Cheekie, Corneglia, Nerina and our latest arrival Archie in excellent form and still able to remember us! This happy fact was clearly due to the efforts of two friends, one from Guzzano and the other from Longoio, who visited, cuddled and, most importantly, fed our feline family.
It’s been hot, though not intolerably so, since our arrival three weeks ago.

 

However, there has recently been one day when the heavens wreaked their wrath upon over us with the strength of a breached sky-dam: a typical ‘bomba d’acqua’ or water bomb, as they are called here, worryingly reflecting the alterations in weather patterns today. This is what I said about it:

“As I write a terrible storm is pouring its vengeance upon the normally blue skies of an Italian summer. The wind is angry upon the hill our little village is poised. The rain is pelting down at a rattling machine gun rate. It turns in an instance into hail. Hail just when the season is heading towards its warmest holiday patch,’ferragosto August the fifteenth. The whole earth is rumbling continuously. It’s almost like an earthquake (we’ve had a few of those here too…).

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There’s no respite. The soil breaks asunder. The birds and cicadas are no longer heard in this pandemonium of the elements. Like searchlights in a concentration camp flashes of lightning follow the incessant noise reverberating round and round our usually peaceful and verdant valley. If any wonder at the violence of the storm sequence in Vivaldi’s Summer from his ‘Four Seasons’ then here is the proof. The heavens are terrifying. The wind is blowing the branches and transforming them into the hands of supplicating victims begging for mercy. When will it end? When will the catastrophic interlude end?

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When will we have our festive sunny season back? Why now! In an instant the irritated giants whose gnashing scared both the living and the dead have retreated. The clouds are parting to reveal a timid pallid blue and are shedding their menacing dark grey pallour. We can at last see and relive the harmony and the heat of this country’s summer without temerity, without dodging the lighting flashes, without hiding, like our cats, into the comforting folds of a bed. Yes this is Italy: a country that breeds extremes, that justifies them. For for every beam of golden light clearing its way through the azure skies there is the warning of the elements, For every invitation to love and caresses there is the terror of darkness, and violence breeds in the very heart in this land of fables and desires.”

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The Paths of Glory Lead but to the Grave

In the current organising of my photographs I came across this one showing the tomb of the writer Ouida (Louise de La Ramée) in Bagni di Lucca’s English or Protestant cemetery.

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Ouida’s tomb was restored in 2013 under the aegis of the Montaigne Foundation with a major contribution from Prof. Tony Bareham in memory of his wife. Tony Bareham sadly died earlier this year.

These are photographs showing the decay inflicted upon some other graves before their refurbishment.

There are two distinct schools regarding the preservation and restoration of cemeteries. One prefers to leave the repositories of the dead to natural dilapidation and decay: the other believes that tombs should be restored as far as possible to their original condition.

I remain in two minds about this; surely decay is an essential part of death?

Bagni di Lucca’s Michel de Montaigne foundation, presided over by their indefatigable director Marcello Cherubini, believes that cemeteries and the memorials to their occupants should be restored whenever possible to a quasi-pristine condition with their surfaces cleaned of eroding mossy growth and their rusting railings repainted. Since the first decade of this millennium the foundation has carried out this project with regard to the historically valuable (but aren’t all cemeteries historically valuable?) English, or Protestant, cemetery in Bagni di Lucca. I’ve written extensively in my posts about this piece of land where, to quote Rupert Brooke’s poem ‘The soldier’, there’s “some corner of a foreign field that is for ever England.”

Here is a selection of them:

2013

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/09/15/chrysanthemums-for-the-end-of-an-era/

2014

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/09/08/faded-crythanthemums/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/10/08/a-rosy-relationship/

2015

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/03/10/urn-burial-in-bagni-di-lucca/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/10/17/john-gibson-and-the-protestant-cemetery/

2016

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/08/30/a-cello-elegy/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/09/05/paths-of-glory/

2017

https://longoio3.com/2017/09/03/new-life-to-bagni-di-luccas-cemetery/

2019

https://longoio3.com/2019/09/04/a-commemoration-of-a-great-lady/

I love wandering about in cemeteries, not only in the discovery of the last resting places of those persons who have immeasurably enriched our lives but also because they contain valuable natural oases, especially in London. Truly in the midst of death there is life.

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Here are some further posts on the theme of cemeteries.

2019

https://longoio3.com/2019/03/02/dalla-morte-alla-nuova-vita/

https://longoio3.com/2019/06/12/16413/

https://longoio3.com/2019/07/19/la-madrina-ritrovata/

2020

https://longoio3.com/2020/05/08/one-tree-hill/

I conclude with my meditation on a tomb in a well-known Parisian cemetery. I leave you to guess whose tomb it is.

 

CIMITIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE

*

I may only make love to you

for barely an hour;

on your slopes a cemetery holds

sweetheart’s decayed flower.

*

Wandering among the city

of the yet-living dead

by a rejected poet’s tomb

an exile’s tear is shed.

*

Cats bask among grass-covered urns –

keepers of vanished souls –

debris of inspiration while

basilican bell tolls.

*

Master of the funeral mass,

camellias from the south;

where are the lover’s ardent lips

that kissed your juice-filled mouth?

*

Bodiless you glare accusing

outside is life’s city;

you wrote about it supremely,

nothing left but pity.

*

In the warm unseasonal sun

clasped we bid them adieu –

the remains of those that were loved –

and our own lives renew.

Where’s My Flight?

I wonder how many people know why there’s a small jet plane on the ‘rotonda’ of the gyratory system accessing the autostrada from Lucca’s Viale Europa? The aircraft, a Piaggio-Douglas PD-808 multi-purpose jet was donated to Lucca by the Italian air force.

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If one manages to reach the central island displaying the PD-808 without getting run over by the busy traffic there’s a plaque which states “To the pilot Carlo del Prete and the aviators from Lucca”.

 

Who was Del Prete? Born in Lucca in 1897, he became a cadet at Livorno’s naval accademy and joined Italy’s Royal Navy serving on submarines during World War One. He took part in Gabriele d’Annunzio’s daring incursion against the Austrian navy at Buccari where his submarine escorted the poet’s legendary MAS 62 torpedo boat preserved at the ‘Vittoriale’ by lake Garda.

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After the war Del Prete got interested in aviation and qualified as a pilot in 1922. Transferring to the newly created Italian Royal Air force he became a navigator. In this role Del Prete organised and took part in various pioneering long-distance flights. The most important among these was the 1927 ‘Four Continents’ flight from Italy to Africa, across the Atlantic to Brazil and other South American countries, the Caribbean, the United States and back to Rome.

In 1928 Del Prete and his colleague Arturo Ferrarin undertook fifty one laps on a Savoia-Marchetti S64 between Ladispoli and Anzio breaking three world records. In the same year they flew the South Atlantic to Brazil where they were fêted in Rio de Janeiro and where there is a monument commemorating the flight. Unfortunately Del Prete crashed on a demonstration flight in the same year and was badly injured. Despite having a leg amputated to avoid infection the pioneering aviator died a few days later; he was posthumously awarded Italy’s highest honour for those serving its air force, the Gold Medal to Aeronautic Valour.

Lucca has not only remembered Carlo Del Prete with the Piaggio-Douglas jet but also by naming a street after him. It’s the one which runs externally along the walls from Porta San Donato to Porta Santa Maria. Furthermore, if any of you are curious about a giant eagle in Piazza San Pietro Somaldi it nests on the house where Del Prete lived.

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Bagni di Lucca has its aviation hero too. In 2017 I attended the unveiling of a memorial plaque to Mario Calderara, Italy’s first licensed pilot, on the façade of the Villa Gamba.

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A private invitation from Pietro, the highly personable descendant of the Gamba-Calderara family, enabled us to visit the gardens and the piano nobile of the villa, otherwise strictly closed to the general public. Pietro showed us some valuable blueprints of his ancestor’s airplane designs.

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The full name of the villa is Gamba-Calderara and Mario Calderara (1879-1944), one of Italy’s greatest pioneer aviators, lived there. Calderara was the first Italian to get a pilot’s license in 1909 and was the builder of Italy’s first flying boat in 1911.

Mario, like his fellow Lucchese Carlo del Prete, joined Livorno’s naval academy where he graduated as midshipman in 1901. He became fascinated by the problems of flight and avidly studied the Wright brothers’ pioneering efforts. In 1907 Calderara reached a height of over 50 feet on his biplane towed by a ship. In 1909 he piloted his first unassisted heavier-than-air fight at Buc in France.

The big breakthrough occurred when Calderara invited Wilbur Wright to Rome. Wright gave Calderara some flying lessons and, consequently, Calderara’s flights increased in length.

In 1911 Calderara built a flying boat, the largest in the world and managed to fly three passengers on it in 1912. In 1917 he became one of the founders of the RAF’s Italian equivalent.

(Mario Calderara is another feather in the cap of those greats who have established Bagni di Lucca as a centre of excellence. For example, our town was the first in Italy to have electric street lighting, the first one to found a Scout troop, the first to pioneer hydro-therapy, the birthplace of Puccini’s ‘Turandot’ (as well as the place where most of the maestro’s ‘Girl of the Golden West’ was composed. It’s great that Bagni di Lucca is now also remembered as the home of one of Italy’s greatest aviation pioneers and co-founder of its air force).

Carlo del Prete and Mario Calderara make us reflect on the miracle of heavier-than-air flight and how we have become used to, indeed dependent on it, at no time more than the present when so many of us are stranded in some non-Italian part of the globe still waiting for that elusive flight to appear and return us to the ‘Bel Paese’!

Bagni di Lucca and its Stand Against Racism

With all the current commotion regarding racism and statues I thought I might say something about my experiences with the phenomenon. At first sight I might not be considered to be a candidate for racist attacks as a white, British born and bred person. However, I am the outcome of an immediately post-war marriage between an Anglican Protestant English father and an Italian Roman Catholic mother.

Their union in the still very narrow-minded milieu of both countries at the time was a challenging one especially as it was also a shot-gun marriage. My mother had to put up with a lot of flack from some of my father’s relatives and having a very strong-willed character did not help either. She did however, make several friends. First and foremost they were among similarly exiled Italians, one of whom I remember very well and which is featured with his partner in this photograph taken in Knole palace’s great park.

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Knole is such a lovely place that we have never wanted to stray from it for very long. Indeed, it’s also inspired the following from me.

 

THE DEER PARK

Beyond the oak leaves a palace

is hidden. By a curve

suddenly we see its brick face:

milord’s and deer’s preserve.

 

Like a compact town it throws spires,

gables, columns and courts.

From its chapel sing silent quires:

religion’s decayed thoughts.

 

Within, the tapestries are thread

with classical lovers

and casements lead to gardens spread

with spring songs of plovers.

 

And as we walk around the wall

the hollow tree still stands

where, hidden in its ancient thrall,

I imagined strange lands.

 

You and I now have this demesne,

the house is ours to keep,

and through it we shall yet regain

lost kingdom’s broken sleep.

 

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(A Deer Chatting up Sandra at Knole)

Other friends included those of Roman Catholic persuasion especially priests and abbots; particularly devoted to Aylesford Priory my mother was present at its re-foundation.

Eventually Vera found an exhausting but very rewarding job as a social worker among mentally troubled Italian immigrants – a job which eventually led to her becoming more involved in mental illness therapy as a Freudian psychoanalyst.

It must be remembered that at the time Italians were still caricatured as mandolin players and spaghetti eaters. (This was before the average Brit was introduced to the delights of continental cooking by that pioneer cookery writer Elizabeth David). Italians were the butt of various jokes of this sort: ‘How many gears does an Italian tank have? One forward and four reverse’ – a cruelly inapt joke seeing that even the Germans recognized the heroic aspect of many Italian campaigns – especially in Russia where they launched the last (albeit futile) full-scale cavalry attack at Isbuschenskij).

(The last great cavalry charge, Isbuschenskij 1942)

My wife recollects that the place where her father worked and where they had tied accommodation, the Italian Institute of Culture in London’s Belgrave square, was subject to vandalism and spite gestures including the introduction of faeces into the letterbox.

With both some relatives and some mean-minded Brits brought up in a milieu of ignorance and bias my mother could not have gone far without experiencing racism. One instance I remember with embarrassment on my part as an eight-year old occurred while waiting in the family doctor’s (Iris Copeman) surgery in Lewisham High street. My mother was speaking to me in her excellent but clearly differently accented English. Suddenly another person in the waiting room, a middle-aged man, hearing her speak said to her gruffly ‘You bloody foreigners! Why don’t you go back and live in your own country’. My mother and I were taken back and the man must have realised he had behaved inappropriately for he left shortly afterward without waiting for his appointment. My mother turned to me and said ‘Why didn’t you say anything? Why didn’t you speak up for me, your mother. ‘ I couldn’t reply but felt very downcast at my inability to have said anything to the man who launched what I was later to define as a racist attack.

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(St Saviour’s Church Lewisham where I was baptised)

For at school we never even were told what racism was. True, there were still only white pupils at my primary school of Dalmain road. Even when I was at secondary school and met up for the first time with students from Africa and Asia I did not think them any different or in any need of special protection or awareness. After all we were in the same school, in the same boat suffering under the same schoolteachers!

This leads me to consider the current slogan ‘black lives matter’ printed on tee-shirts and present at every anti-racist demonstration. Actually, of course, every life counts, not only because we are all humans, but because even white people suffer racist attacks, as happened in the case of my mother. I would go even further and say that all people who find racism abhorrent are likely to suffer racist attacks because of their belief in the essential equality of all humans.

It’s easy for white people to look at people of a different colour and state ‘we’d better not say anything against them because after all we could be arrested for inciting racial hatred.’ However, it’s also the case that white people launch racial attacks against other white people. The Eastern European fruit pickers in places like King’s Lynn are subject to such attacks. ‘Why can’t they speak English like the rest of us.’ is a typical refrain from those parts. I know some non-English white people who are afraid even to open their mouth in an all-white English context for fear of showing up where they come from. At its worst this situation contributes to the ghastly undercurrent running in Brexitism. This is why I truly think that most racists voted for Brexit. I cannot believe that there was any majority of remainers among the thugs gathered in Parliament square over the week-end.

As for statues the United Kingdom can talk! For every statue (and some really do thanks to modern technology – witness Thomas Coram’s statue outside London’s Foundling hospital) does talk and say something about the time they lived and the attitudes they carried. Each one is an essential part of our history and must in some way be preserved and not purged. Are we then going to descend into the realms of Pharaonic ancient Egypt or Neronian Rome when new rulers would assert their power by wiping out all traces of their predecessor?

(Ramses II)

At its utmost nemesis this transforms itself into an incarnation of talebanic proportions. Are we going to blow up the Colosseum because it supported the eating of Christians by lions or the massacre of gladiatorial slaves from the African and eastern provinces?

What then is the situation regarding the Elgin marbles? First of all their name should be changed to Parthenon marbles. Second, they should seriously be considered for return to their country of creation – the glory that was Greece.

(The Parthenon Marbles)

After all India did offer to return her collection of Viceroy statues back to the former heart of the Empire only to have the generous offer refused by its former overlords. In the face of refusal the new republic of India dumped them all in Coronation park – a marvellous open-air museum displaying the follies of an empire based essentially on racism since it saw other races as subject races (as the British are, as comically emphasised in Italian TV broadcasts, ‘sudditi di Sua Maestà – subjects of Her Majesty).

(Coronation Park New Delhi)

Meanwhile Bagni di Lucca where I reside, can truly be proud of its reputation towards people from other countries. It has been the refuge of artistic and political exiles from the English poet Shelley to the Hungarian freedom fighter Sándor Teleki. It remains a sanctuary for those seeking a different life away from the hectic cities they have abandoned and it offers a safe haven for those fleeing from political persecution and hunger.

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(Plaque commemorating Byron’s stay in Bagni di Lucca at the Villa Webb. The inscription translates as ‘Georg(sic) Gordon Byron / During the summer of 1822 he found in the serene peacefulness of this land relief from the anxieties of his life.’

Green-Robed Senators of the Forests

The sweet or Spanish chestnut tree (Castanea Sativa) was introduced into Europe from Sardis in Turkey. Sardis was one of the richest cities of the ancient world and is famed for having invented the concept of currency. We visited the ruins of the ancient city in 1991, a journey which inspired this sonnet.

 

SARDIS

 

Amid scorched stones, the sordid root sprang here

in heaps of monoliths and pediments,

and drowned a childlike earth in blooded fear,

emasculated priests and bare laments.

 

Where is your gold and silver now, great King?

That burnished stroke has crumbled into dust

the temple votaries no longer sing

and all your treasury is turned to rust.

 

White columns’ tempest-shaken marble staves

against a broken sky, a raven screech

across the ether of uncoded waves:

this is the city wrecked upon a beach.

 

And yet what brilliance shines upon these stones

above dusk graves, beyond the vanished bones.

Sometimes disparagingly called ‘the poor person’s flour’, like the potato in Ireland and oats in Scotland, the chestnut once supported half the population in the hill villages around Lucca. Indeed it has been a staple food in southern Europe, Turkey, and southwestern and eastern Asia for millennia, replacing cereal crops where these were unable to grow well in mountainous Mediterranean areas.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the Serchio and Lima valleys. Although unfortunately vast forests of chestnut trees have been largely abandoned since the last war as people have moved to the urban centres in increasing numbers and have replaced chestnut for cereal flour there are still areas with the most wonderful specimens of this noble tree, some of which are hundreds of years old (the Italian word for this is ‘secolare’).

Going beyond Albereta by the Prato Fiorito near Bagni di Lucca and descending into the Scesta valley I came across these stupendous trees with girths exceeding several yards. Some of them had hollowed out trunks into which one could easily enter as you can see!

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I count the Apennine chestnut forest as one of the most beautiful sights to be found on Earth. There is much emphasis and effort now in saving Earth’s rare fauna. I believe that the same emphasis should be given to these stupendous examples of our planet’s flora which should be properly protected against both encroaching disease and the vandal’s axe; they are in all senses of the word irreplaceable.

To the early Christians, chestnuts symbolized chastity. The tree enters into the religious celebrations of several European countries. For example, in France, the marron glacé, a candied chestnut is served at Christmas and New Year’s time. In Tuscany ‘marroni canditi’ are traditionally eaten on Saint Simon’s Day which is the 4th of July.

There is a fine museum at Colognora which illustrates the social and economic history of the sweet chestnut tree which I’ve written about at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/10/11/old-chestnuts/

There’s also a post I’ve written regarding specialties made from chestnut flour and the local festivals associated with it at:

https://longoio3.com/2018/09/21/nuts-about-chestnuts/

There’s more about taking walks in chestnut forests in my post at

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/20/a-walk-up-the-scesta-valley/

 

 

 

 

 

Thinking About The Elysian Fields

Although the first digital camera, developed in the Eastman Kodak laboratories by Steven Sasson, dates from 1975 it wasn’t really until the new millennium that the public ditched analogue film for digital cameras. Today even the market for digital cameras is restricted to those that have truly professional features: for most people point-and-shoot cameras have been replaced by mobile phones’ increasingly sophisticated picture taking features.

My own history of the transition from analogue to digital can be read in my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/04/27/death-of-analogue/

The problem about digital photographs is that one collects too many of them! What wouldn’t I give to have just a few more analogue photos of the time I spent at school and college? I’m, thus, during this strange lockdown time going through my photos and cataloguing  their folders so that I can find (or try to find!) particular people and places.

There are automated processes for organizing photos;for example, image recognition programs can identify anything from plants to people. The one I use is Plantnet which is brilliant for identifying plants from photos of their leaves or flowers. Tagging images can also help. Every photo taken on a cellphone has latitude and longitude coordinates listed under GPS in its properties. These figures can be input into Google Maps and identify the precise location where a photo was taken. However, organizing pictures still remains more difficult than identifying a text or a music file.

One sometimes has to have some emotional strength to identify and organise photos for each image is a monument to a particular stage in one’s life. Things change. Life is an evanescent process and we must all depart at some point. Only the memory remains (if that) and the photographs of departed loved ones are both joyful and painful.

Nature, on the other hand is ever with us, generating both death and rebirth. True, I have photos of forests and meadows that have disappeared, cut down by disease, motorway schemes or sheer vandalism but I rejoice that I have the possibility of returning to a loved place and finding it still there in all its transcendent beauty.

One area which is particularly dear to me are the slopes of the Prato Fiorito, the whale-backed mountain dominating the Lima valley in Tuscany. I was meant to have reached it last April but if I can get to it by September I’ll be happy enough. What I’m, however,  missing out at present are the incredible May flowerings of jonquils on its slopes, a wonder that inspired Shelley’s poetry.

I have written a post of this phenomenon at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/06/07/the-elysian-fields-of-prato-fiorito/ if you want to find out more. For the time being I’ll just display some photos I took on my first visit to this angelic vision in 2006….and label them! Better luck next year…