Three Unmissable Exhibitions

Three major exhibitions within easy reach of Lucca are ending soon and if you have any interest in the development of modern art they can on no account be missed.

The exhibitions are.
Amedeo Modigliani. Livorno Museo Della Citta’. Ending 16 February.


Futurism. Pisa Palazzo Blue. Ending 9 February.


Natalia Goncharova. Firenze. Palazzo Strozzi. Ending 12 January.

It’s a pity that I’m going to miss at least one of these but I have heard that they are all three stunning and if you can get to them do so!

Queen Victoria’s Secret

Queen Victoria first visited Italy as a ten-year old. Over fifty years passed before she returned to a beloved country. In the meanwhile Victoria’d been crowned Queen and Empress of India, been married to and widowed by Albert and spent several of her holidays in that part of Germany where her Prince consort was born.

The Queen was guest of John Temple-Leader when she visited Florence and where she was joyously welcomed by the locals. Temple-Leader had a vast estate around Maiano which included the castle of Vincigliata which he rebuilt, and the quarries where stone used in the great renaissance sculptures was mined. Victoria visited a lake formed by the stone excavations and was so enchanted that she decided to sketch it, an event featured in the Illustrated London News of the time.

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The fattoria (farm) di Maiano exists to this day and is open to the public. Its picturesque walks take in belvederes, garden pavilions, romantic woodlands, silvery olive groves, the quarry lake and animal (including ostrich) paddocks. The fattoria is also a delightful venue for agriturismo stays, has a farm shop and is often used as a wedding venue.

It was truly lovely to appreciate this part of Florence ‘s hinterland bathed in the rosy hues of a late summer sunset.

The Last Princess Demidoff


My name is Maria and this is my grave where I was buried in 1955, the last Demidoff princess.

 

That name may be familiar to you, especially if you know Bagni Di Lucca where, in 1825, my grandfather, Prince Nicholas, built a hospital for the poor who had come there in search of a cure from the healing thermal waters. The hospital, with its miniature pantheon of a chapel, is still there and now used by the global village.

My family made their fortune from iron and steel. The first Demidoff, Demid Antuf’ev, was a smith from Tula in Russia and invented a gun which was adopted by Tzar Peter the Great for his army and used successfully to ward off a Swedish invasion of Russia. (Tsar Peter’s visit to Woolwich dockyard in London, where he learned how to build effective fighting vessels, also came in useful).

By the nineteenth century our family had become the second richest in Russia after that of the Tsar. If anyone today thinks we simply exploited our country’s serf to build our wealth they are wrong. My forebears did much for health and education in my country, founding several schools and hospitals and giving grants to Moscow university. In addition Prince Nicholas was appointed ambassador to the grand duchy of Tuscany and that’s how my Italian connection began.

My husband, Simon Amabalek Lazarev, became a noted archaeologist but tragically was killed in 1917 in the October revolution, leaving me a childless widow for the remainder of my life.

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Our wonderful palace in Florence’s Novoli quarter was badly damaged in the last war and had to wait until 2012 to be restored and converted into flats. Meanwhile, I needed to find a new home and found it in the park of the former Medicean villa at Pratolino.

Of the score of country retreats built by the Great Medici dynasty of Florence Pratolino was the grandest. It was surrounded by formal gardens built along a central axis on which were placed the huge colossus of the Appennines by Giambologna:

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The fountain of Jupiter:

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And the statue of the river Mugnone.

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Francesco Medici, a curious and scholarly person, (rather like my poor Simon), adorned the villa’s parkland with a thousand wonders all centred around the theme of flowing waters. There were fountains which formed watery pergolas, water flowed over the colossus, there was a sequence of ponds which were used as shrimp nurseries, a lake of lilies and, underneath the villa itself, a maze of decorated grottoes and hydraulically powered automatons.

 

Alas, it was this miraculous water that proved the undoing of the most beautiful of all the Medici villas. In 1821 the building was dynamited as it was decided by the dynasty succeeding the Medici, the House of Lorraine, that the damage caused to the foundations by the water flowing through them was too expensive to repair. The rubble was used to fill in the prawn ponds and the original formal park layout converted into a landscape English garden more in keeping with the new romanticism and certainly easier to maintain.

It was in 1872 that my family bought what was left of this park of wonders. They converted the service buildings into their summer villa and added a stately salon.

 

This is where I spent the last stage of my life. Every afternoon I would be driven round my estate to make sure that everything was in order. If I came across children from the adjoining village I would distribute candies to them and It was behind the chapel, built by Buontalenti in the sixteenth century and one of the features still remaining from the original park layout, that I requested to be buried.

 

I am happy that people still remember me, for every year, on my birthday, the priest and choir from Florence’s Russian orthodox church come to my tomb to pray and sing for me.

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A Zephyr Breathes in a New World

La scomparsa del Maestro Franco Zeffirelli toccherà il cuore di ogni italiano e ogni amante delle cose di maggior pregio in questo mondo alquanto bello e alquanto povero, come quel pianeta visto attraverso gli occhi del suo film del ‘poverello’, come quel amore straziante sentito nel suo ‘Romeo e Giulietta’,

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come la voce della divina Callas nel suo mitico allestimento della ‘Tosca’, rappresentata al Covent Garden di Londra nel 1964.

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Per noi, che abbiamo conosciuto questo eccelso discendente di Leonardo da Vinci, la quale morte cinque cento anni fa si commemora quest’anno, la notizia sentita appena pochi minuti fa sulla radio inglese ci ha particolarmente toccato il cuore.

Franco Zeffirelli durante le prove in palcoscenico

Franco Zeffirelli durante le prove

Mi ricordo, in particolare, nel nostro primo anno di matrimonio quando Franco stava eseguendo, all’istituto di cultura a Londra dove l’amico, anch’esso Fiorentino DOC e babbo di mia moglie, era il segretario generale, le prove per ‘Filumena Marturano’, con la moglie di Lawrence Olivier, Joan Plowright. Mi ricordo Franco subì un scioc quando, durante quelle prove, ricevette la notizia della morte della sua divina Maria Callas.

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L’anno dopo, per assoluto caso, durante il viaggio della nostra luna di miele ci siamo trovati proprio nei luoghi in Tunisia dove Franco girò il suo capolavoro, ‘Gesù di Nazareth’. Siamo entrati nel palazzo dove il Redentore fu incoronato con le spine; abbiamo camminato le vie di una Betlemme, ora andata via col vento, come tanti altri scenari cinematografici.

Eccone qualche nostra foto dell’epoca.

 

Ma tu, caro Franco, non andrai mai via col vento. Sarai sempre nei nostri cuori come le memorie della nostra gioventù, come gli amori divini e terrestri che hai rappresentato nelle tue opere cinematografiche e teatrali. E guarderai la su, sul monte che ospita gli altri grandi della tua città natia, verso il sublime panorama di Firenze, e donerai il tuo sguardo d’ oltre tomba a tutti quelli che adorano le cose belle e liete, e ci avvolgerai per sempre in un dolce zeffiro.

L’ultimo capolavoro del maestro si trova lì a Firenze, proprio in piazza San Firenze dove ha creato la fondazione Zeffirelli dedicata non solo alle sue opere creative ma anche alle nuove generazioni di artisti che saranno incoraggiati da borse di studio e, principalmente dal suo esempio che potranno studiare negli archivi ivi contenuti.

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Per saperne di più, leggere i miei post a

An Invitation from Franco Zeffirelli

https://longoio3.com/2018/12/17/zeffirellis-inferno-re-created-in-florence/

 

Florence’s Monumental Fountains Reinstated

In 1865 Florence was appointed the capital of the newly unified Italy and it remained so until the capture of Rome in 1871. It was also acknowledged, however, that Florence, though once a great renaissance city, was now considered to be a city unfit as the capital of the new state.

Throughout the second half of the nineteenth century, in a process called by some ‘risanamento’ (restoring to health) and by others, more honestly ‘sventramento’ (disembowelment), large parts of Florence were moulded to satisfy the aspirations of the nouvelle bourgeoisie for a more fitting capital city. The ancient heart, the Jewish ghetto, and the walls north of the Arno were demolished. Indeed, so widespread was the destruction of ancient landmarks that the English ex-pat community of the time complained bitterly to the authorities about the loss of so many of the city’s ancient quarters and managed to halt the annihilation.

Nothing comparable to this urban wrecking occurred until, in 1944, the Nazis blew up the mediaeval areas to the north and south of the Ponte Vecchio in the mistaken belief that it was better to have them blown up and prevent the bridge’s use, blocked by the rubble, than the bridge itself. If only! A bridge can be rebuilt, as were the instances of the historic bridges of Bassano Del Grappa and Pavia, but whole quarters vanish for ever.

The grandiose nineteenth century urbanisation of the city of the lily did, however, produce one positive result: that of planning the sylvan avenues leading up to Florence’s classic view at the Piazzale Michelangelo.

Laid out in gentle gradients so that horse-drawn carriages could easily climb up the city’s southern hills, the ‘viali’ have, at one point, the Piazza Giuseppe Poggi, a series of ramps which once held elaborately cascading waterfalls.

Sadly, for over a century these waterfalls were dry. However, in a spurt of worthy restoration, which included placing the various reservoirs back into operation, the re-planting of the footpath borders and the renovation of the massive buttresses, the whole complex, the brainchild of Poggi, principal designer of the ‘new Florence’, has its waterfalls gushing anew.

Piazza Giuseppe Poggi is located between the Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, the Lungarno Serristori and Via San Niccolò. Until 1911 it was called ‘piazza delle mulina’, which means ‘water-mills square’.

Here once were mills operated by a canal fed by the river: the canal began near the San Niccolò weir, flowed along the Lungarno Serristori and re-entered the Arno near the Ponte alle Grazie.

The square is dedicated to Giuseppe Poggi, the architect of Piazzale Michelangelo and the Florentine avenues of Circonvallazione, who here designed one of his most daring creations, with the series of neo-mannerist style ramps leading up to the Piazzale’s viewpoint.

We were lucky last week-end to be in Piazzale Poggi when Florence’s mayor turned on the taps. It was slightly ironic that everyone actually wished there was less water on that day as it had been raining since the morning and the planned celebrations, which included a concert and children’s activities, had to be postponed. However, we did manage to enjoy this wonderful reinstatement of one of Florence’s most spectacular features.

Let our photos of the occasion tell the tale. (Note the ancient San Niccolò gate in the middle of the square).

 

 

Leonardo da Vinci’s First Teacher

For Italy and for much of the world this is Leonardo’s year – the five hundredth anniversary of the death, as treasured guest of King Francis I at his Amboise palace, of perhaps the greatest polymath genius the world has known.

If curiosity killed the cat then it fed Leonardo’s mind, transporting it light years away from the often heavily blinkered universe he was born into.

All masters must be pupils first and Leonardo’s master was Andrea Verrocchio who began as a goldsmith, transferred to his greatest love, sculpture,

 

found time to paint a handful of pictures worthy to stand besides those of his main contemporaries, Ghirlandaio and Botticelli, and frescoed monasteries:

 

(Note the similarity between Verocchio’s and Leonardo’s Saint Jerome.)

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Several of these paintings show the touch of an apprentice Leonardo. None more so that the two angels in Verrocchio’s baptism of Christ, in the Uffizi gallery of Florence.

 

It’s those angels in this painting which fully show the emerging genius of Leonardo and his particular speciality in their enigmatic smiles and their intricate drapery. Florence’s Strozzi palace exhibition, which is on until 14 July, celebrates Andrea Del Verrocchio as Leonardo’s teacher placing the young da Vinci in the context of the Italian renaissance and, in particular as one brought up in the colourful decorative Florentine school.

The exhibition, which has a special section at the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, brings together for the first time Verrocchio’s celebrated masterpieces and works by the best-known artists connected with his workshop in the second half of the 15th century. These include Domenico Ghirlandaio, Sandro Botticelli, Pietro Perugino and ….Leonardo da Vinci, his most famous pupil.

Here is a selection of paintings by those connected with Verrocchio’s workshop.

 

And here is the hand of Leonardo in this drawing of entwining grasses – he loved interweaving motifs – witness also his drawings of tresses and branches

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– indeed, in Milan’s Castello Sforzesco there’s a whole room he frescoed which transforms that space into a tangled forest.

The greatest treasure is left for the last exhibition room. It’s a terracotta sculpture of the Madonna and child from London’s V and A which stubbornly still attributes it to Rossellino despite its quite obvious Leonardesque features. Just that quizzical smile of the virgin gives it away!

 

It’s sometimes said that only one of Leonardo’s sculptures survives to this day. I believe there are three. In addition to the Virgin and child there’s an extraordinary Annunciation in the church of San Gennaro only a few miles away from us, near Collodi.

 

You can read more on this work in my post at

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/04/07/crossing-over-at-villa-bove-san-gennaro/

There’s also another sculpture which is never seen as it’s locked away in some private collector’s vault. (Rather sad, this fact).

I shall ever remain in awe of Leonardo and just wish he’d completed a few more of his projects. Surely with da Vinci’s creative mathematical sense he might have explored the musical world and written something for the voice or for the instruments he invented? Who knows? Great geniuses shall ever be enveloped in the draperies of arcane secrets. It’s surely a great idea to walk the hills where the great enigma was born and brought up as we did and which is described in my post at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/04/25/a-walk-in-leonardo-da-vincis-hills/

 

 

 

 

An Earlier Rebellion Against Extinction

It was one year after Chernobyl that artists Enrico Bandelli and Gianni Oliveti presented an exhibition of their works inspired by our precious and so terribly threatened natural world.

Thirty years later, after a period of considerable dilution of their urgent artistic message, Bandelli’s and Oliveti’s works seem more relevant than ever, especially since we now live in a time when over a million species are threatened with extinction.

A local library in the Gavinana suburb of Florence has presented those paintings from thirty years ago in one of their halls, appropriately titled ‘sala del paradiso’.

It’s truly sad that there are very few grounds for optimism in a situation which is getting worse and worse.

Here is a selection of images of polluted seas, hunted animals, trapped birds, dying plants and so many other prophetic warnings regarding our planet.

 

Perhaps the only way forwards now is to heed to international respected British Naturalist David Attenborough when, with today an Earth population of 7,472,985,269,  he remarks:

We have to limit our population growth or nature will do it for us.

Zeffirelli’s ‘Inferno’ Re-Created in Florence

I’ve mentioned Franco Zeffirelli’s foundation and museum in Florence in my post at https://longoio3.com/2018/05/06/an-invitation-from-franco-zeffirelli/

Last October we made a return visit to Florence as we hadn’t yet seen the museum.

Where to start with Franco’s achievements? In operatic scenography (Callas in ‘Tosca’)? In theatrical productions (‘Taming of the Shrew’ with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton)? In films (‘Tea with Mussolini’ with Judi Dench)?

I have my favourites (‘Jesus of Nazareth’, whose film sets we stumbled upon during our Tunisian honeymoon forty years ago),

‘Filumena Marturano’, a West End production with Joan Plowright, Larry Olivier’s widow, and the rehearsals of which we witnessed personally at the Italian Institute with the master himself, my father-in-law’s (the institute’s secretary-general from its inception) good friend, and, particularly, ‘Romeo and Juliet’, which had me transfixed as a teenager.

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There’s an excellent web site for Franco’s museum at

https://www.fondazionefrancozeffirelli.com/en/the-museum/

The immense achievement in theatre, opera and cinema of this genius, who was born in Vinci and is a direct descendant of Leonardo himself, is fully displayed in the fascinating museum which occupies the San Firenze baroque complex formerly occupied by the city’s tribunal. Here is a selection of costumes, photographs and posters showing the breadth of the master’s achievements.

The palazzo’s setting is spectacular and there is a very convivial bar and a cortile to relax in after your visit.

For me the most fascinating section was that dealing with the unfinished 1972 project  of making a film of Dante’s ‘Inferno’. Sandra was involved in typing the scripts and the maestro’s scenic directions. But why was the project abandoned? Zeffirelli needed special effects which, although, today, are common place in any US type blockbuster, were then not yet available. The digital revolution was in its infancy and the master’s imagination could then not be realised in cinematographic form.

These are the preparatory sketches for the imagined masterpiece.

There are so many artists in history whose vision is far ahead of any technology that could achieve it. Zeffirelli is one of them. And this is the astounding re-creation of these sketches in the film which climaxes this very special museum. Of course, you have to see it in its full size in the splendid room which displays it, to fully appreciate the unrealised masterpiece.

 

 

 

The Cleaner: Abramovic in Florence

During a recent trip to Florence I visited the current exhibition at the Palazzo Strozzi. It’s a retrospective titled  ‘The Cleaner’, is dedicated to the revolutionary performance artiste Marina Abramovic and runs from 21st September 2018 to the 20th January 2019.

The exhibition itself is revolutionary too since it’s the first time that a woman is the protagonist at the Strozzi and that protagonist is literally strong meat to take. In other words, the exhibition is not for the faint-hearted.

What is a performance artiste anyway? Marina uses her body ‘without limits and boundaries’ to express her artistic concepts. There are over one hundred works illustrating her pioneering career which now spans over fifty years and there are over thirty performers contributing to the exhibition.

One enters the retrospective, or rather squeezes, between two nude performers who act as a sort of caryatid-like door frame. They re-enact (for each of Marina’s performance acts has been carefully choreographed and documented) ‘Imponderabilia’ dating from 1977 and which was closed down by the police when it was inaugurated in Bologna in 1977. How times have changed!

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The Strozzi’s renaissance rooms each hold a different aspect of this incredibly versatile artiste who graduated from Belgrade Art College. Luminosity, for example, has a nude (or naked?) performer on a cycle saddle suspended on a wall for thirty minutes under a gradually more intense light. Is this a metaphor for our life’s loneliness and its inability to react truthfully towards other humans?

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(Performer removed for this shot)

It’s also a metaphor for Marina’s life when, after an intensely artistic and physical relationship with German artist Ulay, separation takes place. This phase leads to perhaps Marina’s masterpiece. From opposite directions of the Great Wall of China, Ulay from the Gobi desert, Marina from the Yellow Sea each one walks a distance of 2,500 kilometres to meet in the centre for a brief greeting and quickly depart. The film illustrating this experience moved me greatly.

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The cramped Citroen van which Marina and Ulay made their home is also part of the exhibition in the courtyard of the Strozzi palace:

As a Serbian the horrific wars tearing the former Yugoslavia apart affected Abramovic passionately. Her performance reflection on this tragic period of human history was to clean a huge pile of bones of their blood and viscera to form a new blanched ossuary.

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Death is physically embraced as a filthy human skeleton in ‘Cleaning the Mirror’. Marina tries to clean it with a brush but merely transfers its dirt to her own body which becomes increasingly grimy.

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One also becomes a performer together with others. In one room there’s a task of separating rice from lentils and counting them. I confess I gave up after an hour.

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Do not miss the part of the exhibition in the basement of the Strozzi (Strozzina). It illustrates the early life and times of Abramovic and her studies in Belgrade where she rebelled against the academic concept of art as being the pursuit of beauty and where she first envisaged self-mutilation as an artistic expression.

It comes as no surprise that at the end of the exhibition one is somewhat exhausted – drained, in fact. This is why it’s useful to make one’s way to a bar for a stiff (no pun intended) drink afterwards.

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The power of the exhibition was unfolded in the weird dreams I had that night; nightmares, in fact which evolved as a huge canvas illustrating the enigmatic battle between life and death, self and the other, body and spirit, the unreality of everyday reality.

PS ‘Strozzi’, besides being the surname of the Florentine family who built the palace in the fifteenth century, also means ‘strangle’. Be warned. This is an exhibition which can strangle your hold on what you think is reality;  it truly cleans out your mind.

 

 

Of Italian Bars and their Collectors

Thankfully Italy is still largely a land of small businesses and nowhere is this more apparent than in restaurants and, particularly, bars.

This beautiful country is still essentially free of monstrosities like star-a-buckets and costalots (although one of them has recently opened in Milan and, in concession to Italian class and quality, has had to serve drinkable coffee in a surrounding which is probably the finest this chain has ever possessed):

Most bars retain their own individuality. I am particularly drawn to those bar-owners who are collectors. For example, at Aulla station this bar (since regretfully closed) had a scenic model railway running round its interior perimeter:

(See my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/07/11/on-or-off-the-rails-to-pontremoli/ for more).

If you’re a biker, or even just a mopedier, rather than a rail anorak then there’s the extraordinary bar-pizzeria described in my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/09/20/the-wild-one/ :

While traipsing around Florence the other week I chanced upon a bar whose owner was an avid collector of the hippie bus.

In case you don’t know what a hippie bus is it’s the Volkswagen Type 2, introduced in 1950 (sadly discontinued now) and officially known as the Kombi but better known to us travellers to eastern promises during the idyllic sixties as the hippie bus.

The owner told me his cabinet display was just a small part of his collection. His passion for the type 2 was ingrained in him for years and many exquisite examples of the ‘Kombi’ were donated to the bar owner from friends.

I admit I didn’t travel to Kathmandu on a type 2 but in a superior class (as Janis Joplin might have sung) Mercedes Benz. L 319 which transported me as far as Teheran.

Here it is in Beirut before that ghastly civil war and even greater post-war building vandalism destroyed the exquisite charm of this Paris of the Levant.

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Anyway, sipping a caffè macchiato con un pezzo dolce con crema in that Florentine bar, surrounded by seductive models of the classic L319 really started my day in a big way for me; Florence was no longer just a place where

in the room the women come and go
Talking of Michelangelo.

(From T. S. Eliot’s The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock in case you’re one of those ‘rational’ people who don’t read poetry).