A Walk Along the Top of the Botri Canyon

Mudslides and stone falls have damaged various stretches of road in our part of the world. The village of Montefegatesi is particularly affected, for example. Not only are the villagers inconvenienced but also trekking associations. From Montefegatesi a largely unmetalled road joins up with the even more unmetalled Grand Ducal road which leads to the Rifugio Casentini, an excellent starting point for some quite spectacular walks. At the moment there are various complaints from hikers that the rifugio is unreachable because of the bad state of the roads. We’ll see what happens in the next few days.

One very pleasant and well-signed walk from the rifugio is the ‘Orrido di Botri’ ring, or ‘anello’. It’s a walk I’ve done four times since 2008. Going back to January ten years ago I’ve rediscovered the following photographs of that walk.

The first part leads through a beautiful pine forest:

 

The path then opens out onto a ‘paleo’ or a wild grass covered meadow with expansive views.

 

The path now starts skirting the top of the ‘Orrido di Botri’, or Botri Canyon, a dramatic gorge created by the erosion of the Rio Pelago through the upper Apennine range in the Val Fegana. (The Orrido, whose sides almost seem at some places to be an arm’s length from each other, is another favourite walk I’ve done).

Orrido_di_Botri

(Part of the Orrido di Botri).

The path becomes ever narrower and rockier but it’s easily traversable in decent weather unless, of course, one suffers from vertigo since there are some passages where one has to cling on one side of the path with a steep drop on the other. It’s not just a do-able path, it’s also a ‘dog-able’ path as the presence of two canines (near some goats) on this walk, done in January 2008, demonstrates.

 

The path then moves away from the precipitous Orrido (which is said to have inspired Dante when he described the gates of Hell in the ‘Inferno’ of his ‘Divine Comedy’) and transfers back inland into the pine forest, on the way passing a hillock from which there is a great view of the whole Val Fegana.

One then finds oneself back on the path leading to the Rifugio Casentini and reaches one’s starting point around three hours after leaving it.

In summer the rifugio is open for refreshments and is a most pleasant place to rest one’s feet (see its Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/associazionerifugiocasentini/ ). We did this walk by ourselves and it’s easy to follow the clear path directions. If, however, you are not too sure about it there are guided walks run by the local trekking association. For more details see https://www.ilbivacco-toscana.it/en/botri-gorge-loop7

I’m truly looking forwards to better weather to do this walk another time. Tomorrow’s weather forecast predicts an improvement. Let’s hope so!

 

 

The Decaying Beauty of a Villa

Travelling to Pistoia on the road from San Marcello to Le Piastre one crosses the Oppio pass, 2693 feet high. Near the top of this pass there’s the wreck of a formerly fabulous liberty-style villa which is called Villa Bellesi and is inexorably falling into unredeemable ruin. Once its roof is further damaged there’s not much hope left.

 

It’s so sad; unfortunately Italy is full of these marvelous buildings just decaying away because they don’t happen to be ancient roman or renaissance or any other listed style.

From what I was able to gather the Villa Bellesi is in its present state because of a long drawn out inheritance squabble (inevitably!) between two sisters. I wish there was an offence called crime against architecture for the building is an exquisite example of art nouveau chalet-style and has gorgeous Ginori tiles decorating its exterior.

 

The interior was still accessible, though somewhat perilous, when I visited it ten years ago. I wonder if the staircase is still holding up. Someone already then had helped themselves to the bannisters. I can only guess at what they looked like.

 

I passed by the villa last year but found all its entrances and windows bricked up so was unable to access the interior.

The Villa Bellesi would make a superb large family residence or a boutique hotel: it’s situated in a splendid area of the Apennines within an hour’s drive of both Pistoia with its mediaeval wonders and San Marcello Pistoiese, a popular summer resort for the heat-stifled Florentines.

Italy’s unlisted ruins include not only rotting aristocratic edifices but also lunatic asylums, abandoned prisons, plague hospitals, mortuaries, failed factories and even whole deserted villages. Who wants them? Are there any persons out there brave enough to love any of these relicts anew?

Here’s a start. This is what the villa Bellesi used to be like one hundred years ago:

 

 

 

The Passing of a Great Volunteer

Cipriano Nesti was a great example of the qualities that make Italy tick: a true sense of social responsibility without ever counting the cost, a remarkable patience and tolerance towards others and justly Christian virtues. I have known Cipriano for close on twelve years and news of his death two days ago came all the more as a shock.

(Cipriano in uniform as a volunteer of the Misericordia of Borgo a Mozzano)

I first met Cipriano when I joined a local choir, originally known as the ‘Schola Cantorum Controniensis’ but later renamed as the more manageable ‘Cantores Lucenses’. The choir specialized in Gregorian chant although its repertoire included more modern pieces on occasions. The object of the choir was to provide music for local church services and, indeed, on major feasts it did just this but it also extended its singing to other churches in the area and farther afield to Lucca and Viareggio.

(The Cantores Lucenses choir in 2006. Cipriano is the fourth from the right in the last photo, behind Lucca Cathedral’s organist, Giulia Biagetti)

The choir reached such a standard that, in 2007, it obtained the Thomas Dempster prize awarded by the UNESCO association of Pisa. (Incidentally the same prize was won last year by Virgilio Contrucci the chamberlain of the Vicaria di Val di Lima, our local mediaeval enactment group, who also won the national crossbow competition and fire their famous cannon to celebrate significant events occurring in Bagni di Lucca).

Cipriano was well-versed in music and originally considered a career in that field. Indeed, he directed his own choir at Fornoli with great competence. I also remember various occasions when Cipriano tactfully had to correct our own choirmaster over some misreading of the score or some ill-judged tempo markings.

Cipriano’s humanity spread over into his main work which was that of driving instructor at Nadia’s school in Fornoli. Here, too, I received valuable hints from him regarding the conversion of my UK license and driving experience into something more suitable for Italian road-quirks.

From 2010 Cipriano added another string to his bow when he became a volunteer of the Misericordia at Borgo a Mozzano. The Misericordia is the Italian ambulance and emergency service, almost completely run by volunteers and supported by voluntary donations.

Cipriano as choirmaster, as driving instructor and as member of the Misericordia demonstrated to all those who worked with him the virtues of forbearance and serenity. I never ever remember him losing his patience once and he faced other people’s mistakes and insistences with fortitude and the best of humour.

I cannot believe he is gone into a different world from ours. It is such a shock. But he will be ever with us when we sing, when we tackle Italian driving habits and when we need hospital assistance. Addio caro Cipriano!

Cirpiano’s funeral is today, 18th January, at 3 pm at Fornoli church.

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Escher at Pisa

I first came across Maurits Cornelis Escher’s work at university where this essentially austere and highly logical artist inspired that otherwise quite illogical art movement, psychedelia. But then Escher is the artist of the impossibly possible!

 

 

 

In 2015 we visited an Escher exhibition held at my old school’s picture gallery in Dulwich, London. (https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/12/20/extraordinary-escher /). My post on it describes many of the features that contribute to Escher’s unique qualities including tessellation and Penrose-like optical illusions.

 

 

 

Pisa’s enterprising Palazzo Blu is currently hosting an exhibition dedicated to Escher until the 11th of February. (It’s been specially extended).  We visited it a couple of days ago and, despite the fact that both of us thought we were pretty familiar with the artist’s work, we found many new insights.

The artist’s evolution is well-shown in all its facets and is introduced by an original entrance into one of his ‘vault’ designs:

 

 

 

There were many works that I’d never seen before: for example this intimate portrait of Jetta, the artist’s Swiss wife:

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Fascinating were the comparisons made between some of Escher’s arabesques and geometrical forms and Pisa’s own examples of Romanesque art:

 

 

 

Also essential to the understanding of the artist’s sources of inspiration were the Piranesi engravings displayed:

 

 

 

Escher’s sensitivity to nature was wonderfully shown. (See the Koi carp?)

 

 

 

For me the highlights were the delightful village scenes in Tuscany (with brilliant evocations of San Gimignano) through Corsica – including Bonifacio and Corte which we visited in 2012 – the Amalfi coast and the wilder parts of Abruzzi and Calabria. Escher was fascinated by the interlocking village houses, so like Lego pieces, and the unbelievably precipitous slopes on which they were situated.

 

 

 

The artist incorporated these houses in his astonishing four-metre long ‘metamorphosis’, also on show, and which ends where it begins. Here is a detail:

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The cat made several appearances in the exhibition. There was this feline in one of the Italian engravings:

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This cat had a whole drawing dedicated to him:

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A baroque painting alongside showed two cats:

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and the interesting film  introduction to the exhibition displayed the curator’s cat ‘Misty’ sleeping on his desk. (Misty was acknowledged as a contributor. )

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It’s true to say that some of the Palazzo Blu exhibitions are now of a standard to bear comparison with those at Florence’s Palazzo Strozzi exhibitions and in some cases even surpass them.

Here are some links to past Palazzo Blu exhibitions we visited:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/01/08/picasso-and-modigliani-two-unmissable-exhibitions-near-lucca/     (Amedeo Modigliani)

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/04/short-legs-can-can-make-a-fine-artist/       (Toulouse-Lautrec)

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/12/14/italian-blue-skies-and-blue-palaces/        (Dali)

 

 

Bagni di Lucca’s ‘Shelley House’ is No More

‘Shelley House’, Bagni di Lucca Villa’s brilliant bookshop run by Luca and Rebecca, is closing after barely two years.  This is, indeed, sad news since ‘Shelley House’ was more than just a bookshop; it was a meeting place for poets, authors and all those interested in literature and the arts. Rebecca and Luca organized book presentations, art exhibitions and special events like the Brownings’ evening walk along the Lima river, described in my post at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/08/18/a-romantic-evening-of-poetry-along-bagni-di-luccas-river/

Luca and Rebecca also organise the well-known Shelley Festival which has received the patronage of the Italian President. They are also publishers (Edizioni Cinque Marzo) for several writers including myself (‘Septet’, ‘Four Kingdoms’).

Strangely enough, I had presentiments, even before the news, that this lovely bookshop in Bagni di Lucca would not last all that long. Encountering difficult moments in their former location at Viareggio, with its sixty thousand plus inhabitants, how could Luca and Rebecca have captured a more receptive market, despite their most valiant publicity efforts, in a town which barely counts six thousand unless they had an immensely strong on-line presence?

Looking at  comments in Facebook I see the same thoughts came to the mind of several other persons. Here are some of them:

“It’s sad but, unfortunately, they don’t see a future. They came to Bagni di Lucca full of hope and courage but they had to give up”.

“It lasted from morning till evening. I’m sorry.”

“What a pity!”

“It’s a pity. They did their best for our area even if they aren’t from here. They seemed so interested in Bagni di Lucca’s history, culture and everything to do with it. I’m sorry. Bit by bit nothing will remain for us.”

“It’s a pity but with on-line sales and e-readers this is what happens. And not only bookshops..”

“I’m sorry but I’m not surprised, I would be astonished if the opposite happened…”

“On-line sites are destroying so many high street retail shops. How many people have never bought a book? Let’s add, too, how little Italians read. Even in Lucca famous bookshops have closed. Let’s ask ourselves some questions.”

***

With this sad news about Bagni di Lucca’s only dedicated bookshop let’s look on the positive side of things and note the following new hopes for this town in 2018:

  • A newly refurbished Corona hotel which will soon open as a ‘boutique’ hotel.
  • A new greengrocers’ opening at BDL Ponte
  • A new beauty parlour opening at BDL villa.

However, these are no substitute for the departure of Luca and Rebecca (who had been encouraged to come here by former mayor Betti) from Bagni di Lucca Villa. I, for one, shall miss them and all the activities they dedicated to a place they had fallen in love with for its Shelley connections. The irony is that if the bookshop had been kept open it would have been able to celebrate the two hundredth anniversary of the arrival of Percy Bysshe and Mary Shelley to Bagni di Lucca (plus, of course, the anniversary of the first edition of Mary’s novel ‘Frankenstein’).

‘Plus ça change’ in Bagni di Lucca, it seems.

For your reference here are the links, chronologically arranged, to all the blog posts I wrote on the subject of Luca and Rebecca’s Shelley House:

 

2015

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/08/18/a-romantic-evening-of-poetry-along-bagni-di-luccas-river/

 

2016

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/21/two-new-exhibition-spaces-in-bagni-di-lucca/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/30/bagni-di-luccas-casa-shelley/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/09/loves-philosophy/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/14/cassiopeia-and-the-female-principle/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/16/after-the-world/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/27/septet/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/28/allegra-con-spirito/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/03/11/meet-the-stars-at-bagni-di-luccas-1950s-fashion-show/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/03/14/vitalitis-sculpture-opens-at-shelley-house/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/08/a-plea-for-justice-and-civility-in-italy/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/16/stunning-photography-at-shelley-house/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/23/heres-to-will/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/24/the-beechwood-of-the-black-fate/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/04/sunset-with-shelley-and-respighi/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/27/shelley-at-the-house/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/06/07/green-landscapes-in-a-pink-room/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/06/08/on-indian-ink-in-art/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/07/05/nino-chiesas-mastery-of-artistic-techniques/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/08/10/infra-red-at-bagnis-shelley-house/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/09/03/light-boxes-at-bagni-di-lucca-villa/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/11/19/the-sounding-cataract-haunts-me-like-a-passion/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/12/06/shelley-houses-first-birthday/

 

2017

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/03/04/peace-doves/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/03/14/yielding-mothers/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/03/15/water-and-life-at-bagni-di-luccas-shelley-house/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/03/20/my-life-as-a-woman/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/04/08/love-of-literature-in-mediaevalle/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/05/21/vico-pancellorums-secret-language/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/06/15/cor-cordium/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/06/17/of-summer-love-and-death/

https://longoio3.com/2017/07/03/puccini-and-shelley-again/

https://longoio3.com/2017/07/22/an-evening-of-poetry-by-shelleys-house/

https://longoio3.com/2017/08/02/767/

https://longoio3.com/2017/10/14/poetry-please/

 

 

 

 

Ten Years Ago…

The weather this winter is proving most odd. The temperature has remained above zero and I have not yet had to break the ice on the water butt. Snow has only fallen on heights above 1,500 metres and there has been an inordinate amount of rain and cloudy days. Some people have described this winter as spring-like. Are we then going straight on to spring-time or will winter really arrive with a vengeance? This morning, for a change, it’s raining heavily

It’s a good time to look at old photographs and I’ve decided, from time to time, to include some taken ten years ago . After all, with the massive increase of my photograph collection since the advent of digital cameras, there are so many pictures to look at again and, perhaps, anew. Memories linger in the mind and for this reason some photos are a joy to view again while others are tinged with melancholy. Captured in the moment they stay forever fresh and young while we must inevitably step onward to our dusky end.

Here is a little collection taken exactly ten years ago in our part of the world. Let us remember the good times we’ve had with those no longer with us rather than continue to mourn their loss. We must look at our glass of life as being at least half-full rather than half-empty!

 

No More Animal Circuses in Lucca

In line with many other European cities, and reflecting increased public sentiment against the use of animals in circuses, Lucca has stopped hosting what, in Italian, are called ‘circhi equestri’ – which means not just the use of horses but also other animals in circus acts.

The edict from City Mayor Alessandro Tambellini came out in February last year after the Circo Orfei, made famous by Fellini, had finished their tournée at Lucca. Mayor Tambellini’s reasons are primarily of a hygienic nature “due to the unavoidable presence of organic material that remains on the street. The resolution follows the shifting of the twice-weekly market from Via dei Bacchettoni, (the old traditional site running from Porta Elisa to Porta San Jacopo), to Piazzale Don Baroni, an area that was, by current regulations, also intended for travelling circus shows. The location of the market, however, does not make it possible for hygienic and sanitary reasons to allow circuses with the presence of animals there.”

Furthermore, mayor Tambellini, states that the decision “also goes in the direction of underlining those principles of respect for co-existence between man and animal that we believe are important for a civilised sensibility. This will be followed by collaboration with animal lovers and aimed at revising municipal rules regulating the sector, inspiring all to ​​ common sense values “.

The hygienic reason given is surely a tactful way of getting out of the potential confrontation between those who condemn the use of animals in circuses and those who think the use of animals in circuses is fun. We remember walking around the area in Lucca previously occupied by circus elephants and being dangerously close to getting immersed in the largest shits we’ve ever seen in our lives.

The Circo Orfei used animals and we attended one of its at Lucca shows in 2016 which we describe in our post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/10/the-circus-comes-to-town/

Indeed, an animal circus last came to Bagni di Lucca in the same year, an experience we’ve described in the post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/10/the-circus-is-coming/

Interestingly, the UK government’s environment secretary Michael Gove is about to introduce legislation which will ban all animal circuses (of which there are eight still remaining) in that country. (In London they have not been allowed for many years). Apparently 94.5% of the public support such a ban. It’s a pity that the same person is not hearkening to other opinion polls that show that the British public is increasingly unsure about the national suicide note that is Brexit and which Gove is adamant about proceeding with.

In the meanwhile the following photographs taken by us of the Circo Orfei at Lucca  in January ten years ago will become historical and increasingly odd mementoes:

 

 

 

 

Is Eurospin off itsTrolley?

I recently went to do my shopping at Fornaci di Barga’s ‘Eurospin’ supermarket (very competitive prices, especially for the wine) and searched my pocket for a coin to release a trolley from its stand. I then realized there was no need to do this as all trolleys were unchained.

 

My attention was drawn to this notice in the trolley-stand.

 

 

‘Accattonaggio’ (incidentally, spelt incorrectly on the notice) was a new word to me. I’d viewed Pasolini’s gritty film ‘Accattone’ many years ago and realized that the word had something to do with a rough life. ‘Accattonaggio’, in fact, means ‘begging’ and I realized why the trolleys no longer required a coin to be deposited in them for their release. It was to do with the fact that at many supermarkets in Italy there is a band of asylum seekers who ask you for your trolley, once you’ve placed its contents in your car boot, in order to take it back to the stand and claim your coin for their services rendered in returning it.

The notice reminded me of another sad situation, this time in London where barriers have been put in front of some stores to prevent rough sleepers from camping there overnight.

Could the ex-travellers on rubber dinghies across the Med have become so inopportunely aggressive at Fornaci’s Eurospin for these measures to be implemented by the store’s management or was that management really off its trolley?  I wonder. In any case there was the usual African bag and belt seller by the store entrance, with his wares elegantly laid out, talking to a couple of customers. So the store tolerated him, at least.

I have not seen this coinless-trolley system used elsewhere in our area. ‘Penny Market’ at Borgo a Mozzano has its usual bevvy of ‘trolley beggars’ but they have not appeared to me to be so impolite or insistent there.

In the meanwhile are we to see more instances of that vile habit, so endemic in Britain’s urban centres, of hijacking trolleys to dump them in ponds, rivers and creeks? After all that’s why the system of releasing trolleys only by the introduction of a pound coin was introduced in the first place!

 

(A Mountain of a problem? Leaving ‘Eurospin’, Fornaci di Barga with the lovely Pania Secca and Della Croce in front of us)

 

‘Musica Ragazzi’: Lucca’s Children’s Concerts Season

THE FANTASTIC WORLD OF PERCUSSION INSTRUMENTS

“Musica Ragazzi”, a season of concerts and events for children from maternal to high school, was founded in 2006 because of an awareness of the importance of early encounters with art and the fact that music did not sufficiently form part of children’s schooling.

In its first ten years “Musica Ragazzi” has established itself as an evolving project, capable of attracting the attention and praise of Italian music critics and involving great names in the international music scene.

Monday January 15th 9.45a m and 11.00 am – ISSM Luigi Boccherini Auditorium

THE FANTASTIC WORLD OF PERCUSSION INSTRUMENTS

Tetraktis, percussion

FILIPPO GORINI

Saturday, January 20 at 9.30 am – Magna P. S. “Fermi – Giorgi” Hall (event reserved for students of the “E. Fermi – G. Giorgi” Centre).

MEETING THE INTERPRETER

Filippo Gorini piano

ORCHESTRAL REHEARSAL

Thursday January 26th 9.45 am and 11.30 am – ISSM Luigi Boccherini Auditorium

ORCHESTRAL REHEARSAL

ISSM Luigi Boccherini Orchestra – Conductor: GianPaolo Mazzoli

WAITING FOR BOCCHERINI’S BIRTHDAY

Wednesday 7 February at 9.45 am and 11.30 am – Caserma San Colombano, city walls

WAITING FOR BOCCHERINI’S 275th BIRTHDAY

“Luigi and me: true friends” (In collaboration with ‘Centro Studi Boccherini’)

Music and stories about Boccherini’s life

WAITING FOR BOCCHERINI’S BIRTHDAY

Thursday 8 February, 9.45 am and 11.30 am – Caserma San Colombano, city walls

WAITING FOR BOCCHERINI’S 275th BIRTHDAY

“Luigi and me: true friends” (In collaboration with ‘Centro Studi Boccherini’)

Music and stories about Boccherini’s life

WAITING FOR BOCCHERINI’S BIRTHDAY

Friday 9 February, 9.45 am and 11.30 am – Caserma San Colombano, city walls

WAITING FOR BOCCHERINI’S 275th BIRTHDAY

“Luigi and me: true friends” (In collaboration with ‘Centro Studi Boccherini’)

Music and stories about  Boccherini’s life

MEETING WITH MARIO BRUNELLO

Monday 19 February 9.45 am and 11.30 am – Boccherini Institute Auditorium

Dedicated to Luigi Boccherini on the occasion of his 275th birthday

MEETING THE INTERPRETER – Mario Brunello cello

MUSIC AND DANCE

Thursday 8 March 2018 9.45 am and 11.30 am – ISSM Auditorium Luigi Boccherini

MUSIC AND DANCE. MINUETTO, FANDANGO AND MORE

Organized by the Luigi Boccherini ISSM guitar class.

MEETING BEATRICE VENEZI

Monday 19 March 2018 9.30 am – Magna P. S. “Fermi – Giorgi” Hall (event reserved for students of the “E. Fermi – G. Giorgi” Centre)

MEETING THE INTERPRETER

With Beatrice Venezi.

SING FABRIZIO DE ANDRÈ’S POEMS

Friday 23 March 2018 9.45 am and 11.30 am – ISSM Auditorium Luigi Boccherini

SING FABRIZIO DE ANDRÈ’S POEMS

ANDRÈ (In collaboration with the De Andrè Foundation)

Project in A minor – With the participation of Laura De Luca

RHYTHM AND FANTASY IN ITALIAN SONGS

Friday, April 13, 2018 9.45 am and 11.30 am – Luigi Boccherini ISSM Auditorium

WORDS, RHYTHM AND FANTASY IN ITALIAN SONGS OF THE 30s – 40s – 50s

Less Jazz 4et

A MORNING AT THE OPERA

Thursday 19 April 2018 10.30 am – ISSM Auditorium Luigi Boccherini

A MORNING AT THE OPERA … DISCOVERING THE VOICES AND THE CHARACTERS OF OPERA’S MOST FAMOUS WORKS

Organized by the singing classes of Maestro Giovanni Dagnino and Prof. Maria Pia Ionata

MEETING GABRIELE RAGGHIANTI

Friday 20 April 2018 9.30 am – Magna P. S. “Fermi – Giorgi” Hall (event reserved for students of the “E. Fermi – G. Giorgi” Pole)

MEETING THE INTERPRETER

Gabriele Ragghianti, double bass

I AND LUIGI: GOOD FRIENDS

Saturday 5 May 2018 4 pm – Baluardo San Colombano and Sotterranei Mura Urbane (In collaboration with the Luigi Boccherini Study Center)

Lucca Classical Music Festival 2018

TENTH ANNIVERSARY OF THE TEACHING PROJECT “I AND LUIGI TRUE FRIENDS”

Band concert by the Florentine Musical Association with the participation of the pupils of the schools that have joined the project.

Conductor: Marco Mangani

 

 

Viareggio in Winter

Viareggio in winter is a different ‘kettle of fish’ (‘kettle’ here doesn’t mean the one for boiling water in tea-making but, instead, a special kind of saucepan for fish).

fish-kettle

Unlike many English seaside resorts, where summer days can often be as cold as warm winter ones, Viareggio has a quite different atmosphere in winter. All the bathing establishments are closed and the beaches and promenades are empty. I love Viareggio in January and this week we decided to pay a visit to this favourite place of ours.

 

 

Where to start but at the caffè Margherita, the stile-liberty concoction so beloved by Puccini and his cronies and where plans for three of his operas were laid.

They make an excellent cioccolato con panna here!

 

 

And, next to the caffè, the Mondadori bookshop will keep one browsing for ages…

 

 

One can then stroll down to the port and meet the statue of Ettore, the cat who, for nineteen years, would greet fishermen returning with their catch.

 

 

Ettore was a starving kitten when found in a cardboard box in 1997 but he soon became a mascot for all frequenters of Viareggio’s port.

ettoreJPG-kOqG-U1101789728411jsF-1024x851@LaStampa.it

(Ettore in 2014)

It was truly a sad time, therefore, when Ettore died in 2016. Funds were raised to erect a statue to his memory and this was inaugurated in November last year. (I thought to myself that I could start making a post about Italian cat statues much in the same way as I had done one on London cats – see my post at https://longoio3.com/2017/12/21/i-gatti-di-londra/ )

We bought some fresh fish and very fresh prawns (they were still moving around) from the harbour area.

 

 

We also treated ourselves to a delicious fresh fish fry-up served from one of the fishermen’s boats.

 

 

A poster reminded me that Viareggio’s fabulous carnival is now with us.

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We then moved on to Lido di Camaiore which Sandra remembers well since she spent her holidays there as a little girl.

I loved the bleak expansiveness of the beach, the changing clouds and the lapping waves.

 

 

I really do love to be beside the seaside, even in the middle of winter!