Un Viaggio Attraverso il Tempo a Londra

Saranno poche le città che sono esenti dai grandi problemi che creano i trasporti urbani. Certo, la rete di Londra ha le sue noie di cancellazioni, sovraccarici, e lavori di manutenzione. Però, viaggiare sul piano superiore di un bus double- decker, prendere la prima metropolitana costruita nel mondo, usare il grande sistema di overland – la rete di treni interurbani, e, per me il modo più piacevole, mettersi a bordo sui riverbus che, con velocità sorprendente, ti trasportano lungo un fiume così pieno di storia che è il Tamigi, è un vanto in una delle più straordinarie metropoli del mondo.

Il London Transport Museum a Covent Garden aiuta a spiegare in modo esemplare l’evoluzione dei trasporti pubblici nella grande Londra.

Il primo trasporto era sempre sul Tamigi ed è per questa ragione che i grandi palazzi furono costruiti sulle sue sponde: il Palace of Westminster, Somerset House, Hampton Court, per esempio.

Più tardi vennero le portantine dei nobili, le carrozze, le famose Hansom cab ed, infine, i primi treni che aiutarono a espandere la città a forma di ragnatela lungo le nuove linee ferroviarie.

Vennero anche gli omnibus, prima trainati da cavalli, poi dal vapore ed infine col motore a scoppio.

Intanto, le linee del underground erano sempre in continuo sviluppo. Infatti, in molti casi le stazioni furono costruite prima dei centri urbani che dovevano servire, aiutando così a trasformare Londra in una delle prime megalopoli mondiali. Erano anche le stazioni della metropolitana a proteggere gli abitanti dalle stragi naziste durante l’ultima guerra quando furono usati come rifugi anti-bombardamento.

 

 

I tram a Londra furono introdotti solo negli anni 1890, un po in ritardo in confronto con le altre città europee. Erano a due piani e non dovevano circolarsi a capolinea per ricominciare il viaggio, avendo due posti di controllo, avanti e indietro. In più, la loro sorgente elettricità era fornita da un terza rotaia scavata sotto la strada.

Con l’invenzione dei filobus la stagione dei primi tram non durò molto a lungo e l’ultimo scomparve nel 1952, completando il percorso da Westminster a Plumstead.

 

 

Fortunatamente, molto più tardi, ci fu un cambio di idee, e dal 2000 i tram sono ritornati a far parte del sistema di trasporti a Londra, almeno nel sud della città, (come sono pure ritornati a Firenze.)
Il museo dei trasporti di Londra descrive i nuovi sviluppi. Tra poco sarà aperta la Elizabeth line, una linea che faciliterà i viaggi da est a ovest di Londra. In più, nuove stazioni e progetti saranno aggiunti ad una città sempre in fase di espansione e sempre cambiando.

Il biglietto museale dura tutto l’anno, necessario perché c’è cosi tanto da vedere… per poi non dimenticare un intero hangar di altri venerabili esemplari di trasporti Londinesi che si trovano a Acton.

 

Infine, si spera che mai più dovranno essere usati le stazioni dell’underground in questa maniera, come lo erano nel periodo 1939-45…

Tram della vita:

alla tua capolinea

chissà l’aspetto?

Qual’era la Musica Preferita di Stephen Hawking?

Penso per la maggioranza delle persone, uno che non ama la musica – e qui parlo di qualsiasi genere di musica: da Bach ai Blues, da canti liturgici a Lutoslawski, da canzoni alpine ad Abba – è semplicemente una persona senza anima.

Nel Regno Unito c’è un programma sulla radio che esiste dal 29 gennaio 1942 e fu originariamente destinato alle forze armate inglesi durante l’ultima guerra. Si chiama ‘Desert Island Discs’ (dischi per un’isola deserta). Ogni settimana un ospite, chiamato “outcast” (naufrago), è invitato a scegliere otto registrazioni di musica e un libro – oltre all’opera completa di Shakespeare e la Bibbia (o un’altra opera religiosa o filosofica) – e un oggetto di lusso se dovesse essere abbandonato su un’isola deserta.

Più di 3.000 episodi sono stati trasmessi e mi sono sempre divertito a sapere quali brani hanno scelto certi ‘naufragi’ proprio perché la loro scelta potrebbe rivelare tanto del loro carattere.

La recente scomparsa di Stephen Hawking, chiamato da tanti il Galileo inglese, (è anche nato l’otto gennaio, esattamente tre cento anni dopo la morte del grande Pisano), mi ha fatto incuriosire della sua scelta di musica sul programma ‘Desert Island Discs’ quando fu ospite.

Ecco i brani che il grande Hawking (che era nel college Gonville and Caius accanto al mio college di King’s a Cambridge) ha scelto.

 

Francis Poulenc. Gloria

Johannes Brahms. Concerto per Violino

Beethoven. Quartetto per archi in la minore Op 132

Wagner. Die Walkure

Beatles. Please please me

Mozart Requiem (la sua scelta suprema)

Giacomo Puccini. Turandot

Edith Piaf. Non Je ne regrette rien.

Il libro scelto era ‘Middlemarch’ di George Eliot. Il lusso era una grande quantità di creme brulée.

Hawking considerava ‘Turandot’ la più grande delle opere di Puccini (e tristemente notava, come il Requiem di Mozart, incompiuta) ed il brano eseguito alla radio era ‘O Principe, che a lunghe carovane’ nell’interpretazione di Katia Ricciarelli, Placido Domingo e la Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra diretta da Herbert von Karajan.

E’ bene ricordare che questo supremo scienziato si sentiva vicino non solo a Galileo ma anche a Puccini nella sua isola deserta!

Libera mente,

viaggi con la musica

dell’oltre-tempo.

 

L’Incanto delle Camellie

La mostra delle antiche camellie a Sant’Andrea e la Pieve di Compito, ora nella sua 29 esima edizione, è conosciuta mondialmente per la sua suprema bellezza, il suo ameno sito sul Monte Pisano e la sua organizzazione cortese.

Un mio articolo nella rivista ‘Grapevine’ di questo mese celebra questa veritevole ‘camellia all’occhiello’ italiana.

Come si saprà, sono stati gli inglesi che hanno introdotto in Europa le prime camellie trasportate sui loro velieri dalla Cina nel settecento. Il clima del Compitese era idoneo per la coltivazione delle camellie e, in più, una varietà poteva offrire la possibilità di preparare una buona tazza di thè, senza la quale nessun vero anglo-sassone potrebbe mai sopravvivere…

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(Non perdere l’occasione di gustare un ‘cream tea’ con i scones nel tea-house del parco di Chiswick)

A Londra esiste una caratteristica mostra di camellie ogni anno a Chiswick park, esibita nella storica serra, lunga cento metri, del Duca di Devonshire e progettata nel 1813 dal architetto Samuel Ware (colui del famoso Burlington arcade).

Di fronte alla serra un giovane Lewis Kennedy disegnò un giardino formale all’Italiana secondo l’ultima moda inglese (mentre, nella stessa epoca, in Italia diventavano pazzi per la naturalezza dei giardini all’inglese!).

Le camellie, tenute nella magnifica serra al riparo contro le intemperie del clima inglese, risalgono alle varietà più antiche e includono delle vere rarità come la ‘middlemist’s red’: i due soli esempi esistono qui e nella Nuova Zelanda.

Le altre varietà comprendono la Variegata, Imbricata, Chandleri, Alba Piena, Pompone, Corallina, e Rubra Piena, tutte risalenti alla collezione del 1828 del Duca.
Dobbiamo ringraziare i volontari che hanno salvato la collezione di camelie, la squisita serra e il grazioso giardino Italiano per le nuove generazioni. Infatti, il lavoro di riqualificazione è stato solo completato nel 2010.

Le camelie si possono visitare fino all’Aprile. Non dimenticate, però, che nello stesso parco di Chiswick è ubicata la splendida villa di Lord Burlington ispirata dai suoi viaggi in Italia e dalle ville di Palladio.

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L’Italia in Inghilterra (come anche una dei suoi giardinieri che abbiamo incontrato) come l’Inghilterra in Italia, e, in ambedue le nazione, la Cina con le sue camelie… E’ assolutamente senza dubbio che, assieme alla musica, sono i giardini che aiutano a unire il mondo!

 

Ps. Parlando di musica ecco i Beatles a suonare nella serra delle camellie, anni sessanta.dscn0585_11015873203.jpg

Ogni petalo

ci rivela un ricordo

paradisiaco.

 

Parliament’s a Load of Fairies!

 

The Lucchesia is pretty good at supplying those essential supplies even the most cosmopolitan brits yearn for. Sri Lankan shops will supply curry powder, Marmite and ginger beer; the Irish pub near Lucca station builds up a mean Guinness and, in the musical field, a repertoire ranging from last year’s live Stones concert to Colombini’s outbursts of Elgar also greatly helps to appease Anglo-Saxon longings. Fish ‘n Chips regularly appear on Barga’s summer menu and, if there were still lapses, Viareggio’s English shop will fill most gaps in one’s stomach.

However, what is desperately missing in Italy is live performances of Gilbert and Sullivan. Strange, because in 1898 the Mikado, with its libretto adapted by Gustavo Macchi and music published by Ricordi, was shipped across to Florence’s Teatro della Pergola and scored a great success, one which was repeated in the theatres of Genoa, Rome, Palermo, Naples, Milan and Cremona.

Of course, not all Italians were fully able to understand the whimsical subtleties of English and, particularly, Gilbertian humour, although the audience appreciated the English avoidance of French operetta’s outre’ situations, but the Mikado made a particular impact on Puccini who remembered its delightful evocation of an exotic world when he came to compose his own masterpiece of Japonerie, ‘Madama Butterfly’, less than ten years later.

English National Opera’s production of another Gilbert and Sullivan masterpiece, ‘Iolanthe’, where the world of faeries collides with the House of Peers with devastatingly hilarious effect, is set to be an unforgettable success in the same manner as Jonathan Miller’s Mikado production, which we enjoyed some years ago. Happily, no update here is attempted and the operetta sits faerily in a Richard Dadd world of kaleidoscopically flimsy colours, giant flowers, anthropomorphic beasts and a thousand and one other comic touches which it would be unfair to disclose to those unfortunate enough not have yet seen it. It’s just so sad that designer Paul Brown did not live long enough to enjoy his wonderful scenario.

 

 

G and S have suffered unduly at the hands of poor amateur productions. To experience a first class professional performance under Timothy Henry’s baton, with such gorgeous actor-voices as Samantha Price’s, revealed once more to me how fortunate Britain is in having one of the finest operetta traditions in the world and, in Arthur Sullivan, a composer of the highest order, both in serious and light music. What a truly fabulous evening we enjoyed at England’s wonderful National Opera!

Not forgetting, of course, that ENO’s home is the unparalleled splendour of the capital’s largest theatre and Frank Matcham’s masterpiece dating from 1904, the London Coliseum:

 

 

 

Norah Jones and Marcus Miller at Lucca Summer Festival

Lucca Summer Festival announces a big double bill for the evening of July 26 with Norah Jones and Marcus Miller.

Norah Jones, one of the most influential American pop jazz singers, winner of several Grammy Awards, returns to Lucca after six years for her third appearance at the Festival. During the new tour the songwriter will play songs from her latest album ‘Day Breaks’ and items from her repertoire accompanied by exceptional musicians like Brian Blade on drums and Chris Thomas on bass.

Marcus Miller has developed a strong relationship with Lucca Summer Festival, where he was also protagonist in an extraordinary jam session with Pino Daniele in 2013, and, therefore, could not return to present his new album ‘Laid Black’, out this spring.
Miles Davis’ bass player opens the evening accompanied by a band formed by the best young talents of the international jazz-funky scene.

Ticket sales at http://www.ticketone.it

Advance Tickets TicketOne – Infoline 0584.46477

Il Sobborgo Inglese Piu’ Ameno

L’altro giorno siamo andati in visita al mio vecchio professore di letteratura inglese a Bristol dove abita nel sobborgo di Clifton, descritto dal poeta Betjeman come il sobborgo più ameno di tutta l’Inghilterra. Il mio professore è anche il presidente della società di conservazione di Clifton e, così, in una situazione par excellence per mostrarci le bellezze di Clifton. Era la mia prima visita li e, malgrado le temperature siberiane, abbiamo goduto una giornata squisita.

La maggior parte delle case di Clifton furono costruite tra la fine del settecento e l’ottocento. Gli stili variano tra il classico ed il gotico.

 

Il clou di Clifton è il Royal York crescent. Un fenomeno edilizio particolare inglese è dove le case a schiera sono distribuite in forma di mezzaluna. Molte città inglesi hanno esempi di queste ‘crescent’, Bath e Londra, per esempio. Però Clifton vanta il più lungo crescent di tutta l’isola di 330 metri. Cominciato nel 1791 il Royal York fu completato nel 1820 e fu dimora di varii personaggi noti compresa Eugenie de Montijo, la futura moglie di Napoleone III, che qui frequentò la scuola.

 

Parlando di scuole il Collegio di Clifton dove divenne direttore del reparto d’inglese il mio professore è una scuola degna di Hogwarts e Harry Potter nella sua esuberante architettura neo gotica.

 

Possiede un soffitto di cappella che apre in un fiore di lanterna esagonale.

 

La biblioteca è degna di ogni apprendista maghetto.

 

Tra gli alunni del Collegio, fondato nel 1862, sono stati l’attore Michael Redgrave e l’esploratore del Tibet Francis Younghusband che (come noi nel 2016) arrivò a Giangtze.

Però la gloria del sobborgo di Clifton è lo stupendo ponte sospeso, uno dei primi mai costruiti a catena. Iniziato nel 1831 su disegno del grande ingegnere Kingdom Isambard Brunel, fu solo completato nel 1864 e tanto ammirato dal Nottolini del nostro Ponte delle Catene a Fornoli. Lungo 214 metri è tuttora in uso e attraversa l’orrido del fiume Avon in un strapiombo spettacolare. Infatti, rimane tuttora un luogo preferito per quelle persone deluse nell’amore per compiere l’atto finale.

 

Per il momento, però, non mi è venuta assolutamente alcuna voglia di fare altro che riflettere sulle bellezze di questo luogo veramente eccezionale delle isole Britanniche.

London’s Templar Knights

Deep in the heart of London’s inner temple is a church that directly connects with Jerusalem’s holy places.

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Temple church’s 12th century Romanesque nave is circular as is Jerusalem’s Holy Sepulchre and it was built by the once powerful Knights Templars who protected pilgrims’ routes to Palestine. Several of these lie entombed on the floor of the church.

 

The original entrance to the church is a gorgeously elaborate arch.

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Subsequently, the Templars were suppressed, their immense power and wealth a threat to the Pope, but the St John’s Hospitalliers took their place, an order which exists to this very day. The church was expanded in the thirteenth century with a three aisled apse in gothic style.

 

Much later Wren added the reredos.

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Temple church has a great musical tradition and the splendid organ has been well-restored.

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I last visited this arcane building over ten years ago with some friends from Italy and it was an immense pleasure to step back again into one of London’s most atmospheric buildings. I found the church beautifully kept with the added bonus of access to the triforium which gave one spectacular insights into the petrified forest of columns, several of which are purbeck marble.

 

Incidentally, Temple church is one of only four mediaeval round churches in England. The others are St John at Little Maplestead, Holy Sepulchre in Northampton and Cambridge’s Holy Sepulchre.

Round churches came back in fashion in renaissance and neo-classical times and, indeed, Bagni di Lucca’s Demidoff temple is an example. England, too, has some 18th century round churches, one of the finest of which is St Chad in Shrewsbury. However, nothing can beat the extraordinarily intense spirituality of a mediaeval round church such as London’s own Temple.

Napoleonic Dances, Food and Costumes at Lucca’s Ducal Palace

Courtesy of my friend Anna Benedetto, who promotes these events, there is a wonderful series of events in Lucca which will be of particular interest to all lovers of matters Napoleonic.

 

Fans, buffets, quadrilles and cotillons form part of historical re-enactments of the Napoleonic era in a very accessible way without one having to hunt for a suitable costume.

The events take place in Lucca’s Palazzo Ducale the historic centre of the city’s government and the residence of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi as well as of Maria Luisa di Borbone, after having been the seat of the Luccan republic for four hundred years.

The events run from 6 March to 3 April, at 5pm to 7 pm, with free admission and take place in the state rooms of the Ducal Palace. It is also possible to attend just one event.

Margarita Martinez, an Australian from Sydney, former director of Opera Australia and Victoria State Opera, before moving to Florence, where she promotes the rediscovery and spread of vintage dance and launched the Napoleonic Ball which enjoys international success, is the organiser.

From etiquette to food, to clothes from the Regency of Jane Austen to the Empire of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, there will be five conference-laboratories on history, costume and society. They are five historical laboratories for learning about court life of the first decades of the nineteenth century. The five meetings will develop many themes: court customs, in particular Napoleonic customs characterized by a very rigid code dictated personally by the Emperor and in force at the Paris court as in all Napoleonic courts.

The initiative was born following the success of the Napoleonic dances and the afternoon dedicated to Luigi Boccherini’s Fandango, held during the last two years.

 

 

Programme Events

Tuesday, March 6: “Ventagli e Bicorni”.
(Fans and Hats). Through the dance, discovering the subtle language of the court in the Palazzo Ducale.

Tuesday, March 13: “Fashion: a ‘battle’ of styles”. Jane Austen’s Regency and Elisa Baciocchi’s Empire. You will be able to see and try faithful reproductions of men’s and women’s clothes with their accessories.

Tuesday, March 20: “Le Buffet Froid – food presentation”. The table as an essential part of scenography. Antonin Carême, great chef of the Empire and his ‘extraordinaires’ of cotton candy sweets.

Tuesday, March 27: “Contraddanze e Quadriglie”. (Contredances and quadrilles.) First practical lesson on the steps and basic dance figures at the time of Napoleon. No dance experience is required, but the use of shoes without heels is required.

Tuesday, April 3: “Minuetti and Cotillons”. Second practical lesson on the choreography of the various Napoleonic dances. No dance experience is required, but the use of shoes without high heels is required.

“Ballo a Palazzo” is an initiative of the “Napoleon and Elisa: from Paris to Tuscany” association, created on the occasion of the bicentenary of the installation of the Duchess Maria Luisa di Borbone in Lucca (1817-2017), whose commemorative events are sponsored by the City of Lucca, the Province of Lucca, the Cassa di Risparmio di Lucca Foundation and the Banca del Monte di Lucca Foundation.

Info: Facebook; Margarita Martinez: mailto, 340 853 4505. @annabe

The Italian General Election 2018

Today Italy goes to the polls to vote for a new government to replace Gentiloni’s caretaker administration put into place after man-in-a-hurry Renzi lost his bid for constitutional reform in 2016.

The main issue should be jobs, particularly when one in three young Italians are unemployed. However, increasingly, the elections seems to be about immigration. The simple fact is that Italy is having to go it alone with handling the Mediterranean people trafficking racket while EU edicts continue to have little effect on so many of its members, especially those of the east who, after years of Soviet domination, now rightfully wish to reaffirm and defend their cultural and religious roots.

Italy, too, has tended to be a culturally homogeneous country built on a Roman Catholic faith which, although more observed now in the breach that ever before, still permeates the nation with a robust cultural force which affects every aspect of its social life.

Whereas the UK has known cultural diversity ever since the years of the slave trade and the post-war invitation of Caribbean people to provide man power for the reconstruction of British industry, Italy, on the other hand, has only experienced wide-scale cultural diversity since the 1980’s with the first boat landings of migrants from Africa.

In this respect the Italian elections will bear an uncanny resemblance to the UK’s 2016 referendum, otherwise known as Brexit.

Is immigration regulation a bigger issue than job creation? Is taking back control of one’s borders more important than establishing a stronger economic basis? Is it better to suffer in splendid isolation that to manage the world’s inevitable population flows?
Italy is just as divided as the UK in these issues. And the worse thing is that the political parties in each of these countries have not adjourned themselves to facing fast changing world situations and have not debated these facts with the seriousness they merit.

One thing is certain, however. With over 30% youth unemployment in Italy, any party, whether left, centre or right wing that has no workable policy to address the desperate situation where young people are unable to buy or even rent their own house, where zero-hour contracts proliferate and where the prospects of starting a family in an acceptable environment are ever diminishing, is not worth the slogans it stands for. The results of the 2018 Italian General election will have repercussions that may well extend beyond the borders of this brave, unfairly treated, proud and quintessentially beautiful nation. That’s why even non-voters should take heed.

Turner’s House, Twickenham

In 1807 one of the greatest landscape artists of all time, William Mallory Turner, purchased two plots of land in the rural settings of Twickenham, then a village by the Thames to the west of London. Here he built to his own design (with a little help from his friend the architect Sir John Soane) a villa which became his country retreat to escape from the bustle of London.

Turner would use the little villa as a base for his sketching excursions into the gorgeous upper Thames valley, sketches which formed the basis of many of his best known paintings. He would also go fishing, entertain his friends and relax. It was his dad, a barber, who looked after the house and when Turner senior became too ill in 1826 his son sold the property.

The house then went through various owners until it was eventually bequeathed by Professor Harold Livermore in 2010. For some years the villa was on the at risk register until it was saved for the nation through the efforts of the Turner house trust and a lottery grant.

The house’s restoration was finally completed last year and Turner’s elegant hideaway opened its doors to the public in the summer of 2017.

It was a privilege to visit the villa yesterday. Although placed in a street of late victorian houses it originally stood in splendid isolation among fields sloping down to the riverbank. We were shown around by an arts graduate who gave us an excellent commentary. Though small the villa is perfectly formed and beautifully reflects Turner’s original ambition to become an architect. Indeed, it has aptly been described as the artist’s only 3d painting.

The villa consists of a basement kitchen haunted by the ghost of Turner ‘s dad who we actually met! The ground floor has dining room, sitting room and parlour and the upper floor, reached by a beautifully oval Soanian staircase, has two bedrooms.

Here are some photos I took of this charming recency villa. Note the unstuccoed exterior as originally envisaged revealing the marvellous brickwork, and the high quality of the restoration.

Although nothing remains of the house’s original furnishings they have all been recreated with consummate care down to the chintz curtains and the wallpaper, reconstructed from an original fragment. Genial touches are provided by the telescope in the main bedroom; you look through the eyepiece and see what the much larger original garden must have looked like in the 1820’s complete with fishpond.

Rather like Modigliani’s house which we visited in Livorno there are no original paintings of the artist on view. However, Turner, took great care over his engravings of which there are fine examples in the villa, largely from his important ‘Liber Studiorum’.

After his father’s death Turner became ever more eccentric and lived increasingly in a chaotic mess. Morose and a man of few words he managed to sire a couple of children from his housekeepers but never sold his greatest masterpieces, among which is a painting which has been voted the nation’s favourite picture. It is, of course ‘the fighting Temeraire’, now in the National Gallery. It’s an image which in so many ways sums up the Britain of today. The Temeraire, one of the last surviving ships which saw action in the battle of Trafalgar, is being ignobly towed to a naval scrapyard at Rotherhithe by a contemporary steam tug. The great man-of-war is illuminated by the light of glory while the mean little tug is in dark hues. ‘Sic transit Gloria Mundi’.

 

For further information please consult Turner ‘s house excellent website at

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